Wednesday, February 27, 2013

mucha luvia (lots of rain!)


Antigua, Guatemala, October, 2011

It has been raining here for days.  It IS the rainy season, and to be expected, but it´s supposed to be winding down, now that we´re in October, or so we thought. As I lay in my lumpy bed, wide awake in the middle of a recent night, snug and warm, listening to the drumming of rain on the metal roof, I couldn´t help but wonder about landslides in the countryside and dark little tin-sided shacks with dirt floors with streams, undoubtedly, running through them by then.  Or a classful of squirmy kids, unable to go outside for fresh air and a good run - which I may be dealing with soon.  

Well, it turns out that there have, indeed, been landslides and flooding in the area surrounding Xela, where we were living until last week.  Already 10 people have died in that area and 10 others in other parts of the country.  Schools have been closed all over the country.  Closer to Antigua, where we are now, Safe Passage volunteers have been sent out of Guatemala City and back to their living quarters in Antigua early for a couple of days because of concern about the roads getting cut off with landslides.  The land must be so very saturated with water by now, as the rain continues, both day and night.  There are periods of just drizzle but it´s been pretty constant, in one form or another, for the better part of a week now.  It´s all part of a tropical depression that is predicted to continue into next week.

To keep our spirits up in this dankness, Bruce and I have been gathering up our books and the umbrella, putting on our ïmpermeables and heading out each morning (our "gap" week), to a beautiful cafe where the coffee is good and the prices are good and the ambiance is amazing.  The guy with the uniform and the big gun, standing guard at the door, (guess he´s part of the ambiance,too) will soon begin to recognize us.  We sit at a table, upstairs in a colonial home dating to the 1500`s, looking down on a patio filled with lush plants, with little sparrows darting in and out, pull out our Spanish verbs and settle in for the morning.  Slowly, we are making sense of the present tense, the preterite tense, the imperfect, and the future.  Still painful, but we´re trying to be patient with ourselves.

Today Bruce and I went on a 3 hour walking tour of Antigua.  The tour was given by a woman from California who has lived here for 30 years and is an authority on the city and its history.   We learned all about the Spanish conquest of the area, the strong role of the Catholic church,  and the history of the Mayan people in this area.  We visited several churches,  the town hall, a jade factory and a lovely old Dominican monastery.    We were pretty tired at the end and hungry, but it was a great orientation to the town.  I`m sure there  is more to learn during our stay.

Adios for now.

ps.  I love the Spanish word for retired:  jubilado!

Winding Down

Antigua, Guatemala        November, 2011

 My new friend, Andrea is a classy and bright young Latino woman from Venezuela  who is volunteering at  Camino Seguro and living with us in the Morales home.  She has advised me that life in Latin America is full of contrasts.  She mentioned this in relation to Caracas, where abject poverty exists not far from the high rise opulence of the well-to-do.  Here in Guatemala,  I am often struck by the irony of the beautiful pink rose bush that rises up over the cement wall, in defiance of  its surroundings in the dump neighborhood.  And when I get to school, I love seeing the occasional little girl who has emerged from a filthy environment, dressed in her gauzy, many-layered ball gown, with a pair of dirty sneakers to complete the outfit!  As we approach Antigua on the bus at the end of the day, we pass a small cluster of low tin-sided shacks with smoke from an open cooking fire inside leaking out of the eaves of the house.  Looming over the house is a giant billboard advertising a luxurious hotel in the city!   Contrasts do, indeed, surround us.