Our Own Safari

Our Own Safari                 March 30, 2018

What comes to mind when you think of Africa?   The iconic image for me is large, exotic wild animals.  I'm really more of a people-person than an animal-person.  Animals penned up in zoos usually make me sad.  I do like house cats and some dogs and sheep in fields and birds flying freely.  A safari was not high on my list of things to do in South Africa, but it seemed that we really should see some of the big guys while we were here.  So, at the suggestion of several friends, we put Addo Elephant National Park on our itinerary.  For Vanessa and Graham, it took no convincing at all, being animal whisperers for all of God's creatures, it seems - except for snakes!  We have that last bit in common, for sure!  

Addo Park had been created back in 1931 for 15 elephants, all that was left of a vibrant population that had been hunted nearly to extinction.  The elephants must be happy now.  The herd has grown to more than 450 elephants, and the initial small piece of land has been enlarged to its current 1100 square miles!  

The village of Addo is inland from the coast where we had been traveling for four days.  The plan was to arrive in the evening, tour the park the next day, and and spend that night there before departing.  We had hoped to stay inside the Park in one of their rondavels, the round cabins built to look like the traditional thatch-roofed huts of indigenous peoples.  Alas, that was not to be.  Instead we found a "backpacker" just outside the park.  These are funky establishments, with access to a communal kitchen for cooking, frequented mostly by frugal young travelers carrying backpacks.  

                            Patio at the Orange Elephant Backpacker

Nowadays, they often offer ensuite rooms as an alternative to the dorm rooms.  We were able to get one of those for our second night there.  Despite the slightly less than cushy accommodations, there is a very appealing energy and sociability to a backpacker that we enjoy.  

We stayed in three different backpackers on this trip, and all of them had bonfires which served as gathering spots for the guests.   At the "Orange Elephant" backpacker, the fire was contained in an ingenious metal structure welded together from an old air-conditioning unit.  So African in its conception and resourcefulness :).  That evening we sat around the fire, chatting and eating pizza under an inky black sky studded with stars, thinking "I'm really in Africa!!"

The next morning we were up and out early, in order to be at the gate when the park opened at 7 am.  Exploration of the preserve is done from the safe confines of a vehicle.  Professional tours are available in small vans, but we opted to do our own driving in our rental car.  The next 8 hours were spent touring the bushy parkland, trying to spot animals.  It was a bit like a treasure hunt.  

Roads, some paved, many unpaved, crisscross the southern part of the park, up and down wide open spaces.  We headed for a viewing spot located high on a knoll overlooking a watering hole, got out of the car and took positions standing on a wobbly bench.  It was still early morning.  The sun was bright and already hot on our backs.  Etiquette and common sense require silence.   Birds twittered and flew around us, a large yellow Cape weaver landing beside us momentarily.  

                  Graham and Vanessa look out over the watering hole.

Far below, near the pond, we were thrilled to first notice a couple of elands, a type of antelope, skirting the water.  I would not have even known that name had it not been for a large kindergarten floor puzzle depicting African animals that had been in my Breakwater classroom!    Soon  3-4 zebras were spotted making their way toward the water, followed by more and more, parents and kids, taking their turns on the uneasy footing to get their morning drinks.  Something in me clicked at that moment.  This was one of the most thrilling experiences that I'd had in a long time!  

We watched this snippet of life in the semi-wild for a half hour or so.  Despite the thrill of zebras and elands, we were a bit disappointed at the lack of elephants.  But, the day was young - so we piled back into the car with Vanessa driving and the rest of us peering intently over the landscape.  

Soon we were slowed to a stop as a tightly-packed herd of African buffalo crossed the road in front of the car, their impressive curved horns and hefty bodies holding our rapt attention.  

Warthogs were everywhere, all day.  Their short stout bodies and silly-looking horns gave them a comical appearance - but not one that I'd want to tangle with!  

The majestic kudu, with its impressive curved horns and beautiful body markings, is elegant.

Zebras, too, became easy to spot. 

Eventually we did see elephants, LOTS of elephants!  In one group, we counted over 40!  Finding watering holes was the key.  The big, slow-moving kings of this park clearly held sway over these oases.  They alternated between drinking the water and splashing themselves with mud to cool off.  They jostled and pushed each other.  In the only deep water hole that we encountered, they slipped down the greasy path and swam and played and made love and honked at each other.  After a while, they would lumber off into the bush.  Watching them was mesmerizing. 

Witnessing elephants in the semi-wild, in their own habitat where they are free to roam, was amazing!   In addition to the animals mentioned, we also saw a jackal and several large African tortoises.  By comparison, the tiniest creature that we saw was the dung beetle, though it is not small in the insect world!  The beetles are in heaven here, with lots of dung to lay their eggs in - but often in mortal danger since they cross the road slowly.  

We did not see any lions or rhinos, though they do live in the park.  

By 4 pm, we were pretty tired and returned to the backpacker.  It had been a "once in a lifetime" experience, opening our eyes to what this continent must have looked like a couple of hundred years ago.  Thank goodness that the South African government, with all of its challenges, has chosen to protect and nurture these treasures of the wild.  

Gesondheid or "To Your Health"

                      Gesondheid or "To Your Health"         March 26, 2018

Thanks to the generosity of Graham's aunt and uncle, we had a lovely weekend in Somerset West, in the famous vineyard region.  The Winelands offer another aspect of South African life which we had been eager to explore. 

The four of us - Vanessa, Graham, Bruce, and I - had rented a car to take us on a twelve day adventure on the "Garden Route", which stretches east of Cape Town, along the Indian Ocean, on the bottom of the African continent.  Our visit to Graham's family was our first stop.  

The area is visually impressive, overlooked by a range of blue-gray mountains, the Hottentot-Hollands, that rise up steeply from the plains, not far from the coast, providing perfect conditions for great vineyards.  

                                         Winelands area


After checking in at the family home, we headed out to Stellenbosch, a lovely, leafy university town with a long history of learning and wine-making.  Several people back home in Maine had suggested this as a destination for us.  The architecture alone was worth the visit, as examples of the typical old Cape Dutch style line the streets.  

          Brilliant white Stellenbosch old Cape Dutch building


This is a very white town, both the buildings and the people, with many trendy little shops and restos - just the place for a group of young black kids to raise money with a dance demonstration on the main street.  I loved it!  

We didn't have time for a wine-tasting in Stellenbosch, as it was late by the time we'd had lunch and strolled around.  We headed back to make supper for the family on Saturday evening.   

On Sunday morning, however, we set out for nearby Vergelegen vineyards. The South African wine industry was begun three hundred years ago by the Dutch East India Company to produce wine for the company directors in Malaysia - and had a tough time getting it right until French Hugenots arrived, looking for religious tolerance and bringing with them their wine-making skills!  Now the Winelands are dotted with historic, beautiful old wine estates, most of which offer wine tastings.  We were reminded of Napa Valley.  

Surrounded by fields of grape vines, Vergelegen is one of the oldest vineyards in the country.   After some years of neglect, the estate has been restored to its former glory, with lovely flower & herb gardens, as well as lush green lawns and huge old trees.  The manor house is furnished and open as a museum, showing the elegant, cultured lifestyle of its previous the owners.  Of course, all of this rested on the backs of their slaves, whose story was also told.  The name, country of origin, date of acquisition, and price of every slave were printed on the wall in a moving display.  In more recent times,  a bevy of distinguished people have visited the estate, including Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip,  Nelson Mandela, Bill & Hilary Clinton, Elton John, Desmond Tutu, & Martha Stewart!  That day it was Vanessa Beck and Bruce & Linda Webb!  While I was studying the photos and text describing the history of Vergelegen, along with other white visitors, a very black man, dressed in the white uniform of a staff person, quietly passed by, carrying an armload of fresh linens.  I couldn't help but wonder what has changed in all these years.  

          Vergelegen Vineyards manor house and gardens

It was a sunny warm day, and the estate was lovely.  We strolled the expansive grounds and relaxed on the veranda for an abbreviated tasting of their award-winning wines, keeping an eye on the clock to make sure that we were back home in time for Sunday lunch.  

          Gesondheid, Afrikaans for "to your health"!

Graham's aunt Antoinette puts on a fabulous traditional family Sunday lunch. In South Africa, the brai (barbecue) is a popular choice for a summer meal, and, just like at home, the man of the house, in this case Uncle Simon, was in charge of barbecuing the chicken.  Antoinette's 83 year-old dad, Andre, joined us, which made seven of us for lunch.  

                       Getting ready for the brai on the patio: 
                  (l to r)   Uncle Simon, Bruce, Graham, and Andre  

From the patio table, we could see the ocean in the distance.  Chatting over lunch was a unique opportunity for us to get to know Graham's family and more about South African life.  Later that afternoon, Antoinette took us for a drive to the seaside towns of Strand and Gordon's Bay, which we could see from their home.  

The day was wearing down as we passed the tall hotels and apartments lining the shore.  In the late afternoon sun, families were walking together, groups of young men played a lively game of beach soccer, a few hardy folks swam in the waters of False Bay.  There was definitely a relaxed, beachy vibe with a much more diverse crowd than we'd seen at the vineyards.  At the end of the bay, mountains dropped quite steeply into the sea, and expensive homes dotted the hillside.  

                                               Gordon's Bay

The next morning was Monday.  Antoinette & Simon went off to work.  Vanessa & Graham went to Cape Town for an appointment.  While Bruce & I waited for V & G's return, the family housekeeper arrived.  She had traveled on public transport from a township with her grand-daughter, who is attending pre-school in Somerset West.  Townships are the areas where Blacks were required to live during the time of aparteid - and where they still live, due to economic hardship.  On our way from Cape Town, the highway had passed the township where Thandi lives.  As the second largest township after Soweto, it was not hard to miss.  With upwards of half a million residents, its sprawling clusters of distinctly poor shacks and shabby concrete houses along dirt pathways are such a stark contrast to the upscale housing that we had seen in Cape Town and the winelands.  It is very sad.  I am reminded that it's been barely 30 years since the end of apartheid, however.  Trevor Noah, in his memoir, Born a Crime, shows the power of education and determination to move out of the townships and into a better life.  I'm sure his journey is unique, however.  

Vanessa & Graham returned, and we got on our way for a great adventure that has taken us 1000 miles, round trip, along the coast to Port Elizabeth and inland to Addo and back.  We're not quite finished with our excursion.  It's been an amazing experience, full of dramatic scenery and interesting encounters with local residents.   One highlight was our day spent in an elephant preserve.  More on that in the next post.  

This post has been extraordinarily difficult to get out, due to computer grumpiness, primarily, along with sketchy internet availability.  Here goes!  

Facts of LIfe in Cape Town

Facts of Life in Cape Town          March 15, 2018

                                  Cape Town Airport Welcome!

From the moment we arrived in Cape Town nearly a week ago, water conservation has been on my mind.  Not every moment, but certainly when working in the kitchen or bathroom.  We had heard about the water shortage even before we left home and had wondered if we might be met with "day zero" in which the taps would be turned off totally.  I'm not sure how the population would cope in that situation, but it is a real possibility.  If there's no water left, the government will have no choice.  Fortunately, the citizens of Cape Town have reportedly done an amazing job of reducing their water consumption to 50% of their former use.  Day Zero has been put back for a few months.  However, continued diligence is in order to avoid that possibility.  

Reminders are everywhere.   As we entered the airport in Cape Town, we were greeted by the above sign.  Today we encountered a large public installation at the touristy waterfront, where the World Wildlife Fund was educating the public and encouraging them to be creative in conserving.  Restrooms make hand sanitizer available for use instead of washing with water.  Bottled water can be bought in restaurants but glasses of water are not given out.  Everyone is encouraged to do less laundry; use fewer dishes; to flush less often; to take 2 minute showers; to "catch" shower water and use it on the lawn. Gardeners are "training" plants to need less water, which encourages deeper roots, and does no harm. People who water their yards with gray water make sure to post signs letting their neighbors know that the water is not potable, less they be mistakenly judged for using drinking water for lawns.  On our flight into Cape Town, we could see large swaths of once cultivated land lying dry and sandy.  Young children are aware of the crisis, and now teachers are needing to alleviate anxiety with reassurances that things will improve.  

Hopefully, it will improve, but the infrastructure was put in place to serve a million residents - and now there are 4 million people living here.  All over Africa, drought is an issue.   It's a problem that is not going to be easily solved.  Out of necessity, perhaps Cape Town residents will become models for conservation for the rest of us.  

                  It rained for a short time this evening.  Yay!

We have really lucked out - again - with our Airbnb apartment.  It's a beautiful space, on the ground floor, 3 rooms, all white and sparkly clean, with a tiny private garden.  It's well-appointed with a washing machine for laundry, as well as a dishwasher.  Of course, we rarely use a dishwasher at home and certainly not in a city experiencing severe drought!  Our German doctor landlord has been extremely attentive, stopping by almost daily to check in with us and have a chat.  

   Our eat-in kitchen - AND the security gate and wall just beyond.

The other harsh fact of life in Cape Town is the HIGH degree of security that is necessary - and the complicated system of alarm-setting and un-setting required with every entrance and exit of the house!  We are surrounded by a cement wall topped with sharp spikes, and electrified wires; a locked gate into the property; a locked folding gate into the apartment, as well as a door that locks; plus all manner of sensors!  When we get up in the middle of the night, we can see the sensor in the corner light up.  OMG!  We feel a bit like prisoners ourselves - albeit in a lovely prison :)!  For the first couple of days we were terrified of setting off the wrong alarm that might result in an armed response.  By now, Bruce has sorted out the system, but we are cautious.  A mistake on our part would be embarrassing and might be dangerous.  

              Our livingroom, opening to the small "garden".  
You can't see the collapsed metal gate at the door ...  

    ...but this is what it looks like when it's in place across the door.  

Unfortunately, this degree of security is apparently a necessary reality in Cape Town, given the scary stories that we've heard of break-ins and murders.  What a sad state of affairs - due to the extraordinary income gap between the have's and have-not's in this land, along racial lines, of course, and the high rate of unemployment.  Everyone is hoping that the new president, Mr. Ramaphosa, will be able to improve the economy and help to equalize opportunity. 

"Let there be work, bread, water, & salt for all."    Nelson Mandela

Despite the danger implied by the security systems, we have found that our neighborhood is lovely and safe.  Even downtown seems fine, IF one is cautious and sensible, similar to Guatemala.  Having said that, our very sensible friend Vanessa has warded off two pickpocket attempts, which shook her confidence for a while.   

On a cheerier note, Bruce & I had a lovely experience on Monday morning when we helped Vanessa teach a group of first grade girls about gardening.  Vanessa and hubby Graham are our New Zealand/Chicago friends who are living here temporarily in the land where Graham was born.  They are the reason that we are here!  Vanessa has been volunteering at an urban vegetable farm and had asked if B & I might like to help, too. 

Vanessa & Bruce checking out the worm box.  I had had a much smaller version in my classroom at Breakwater School for a while.   

Once a week a different group of children comes to the garden to learn about composting and insects and worm tea and plants.  This week's group was from an all-girls private primary school - and were fun kids.  They reminded me of my Breakwater students - well-informed; well-traveled; rather empowered - but still little kids who loved letting the goldfish nibble at their fingers and were excited to pull a carrot from the garden and eat it on the spot.  When my group heard that we were from the USA, they brought up the topic of our president, whom they all knew about.  They did not hold back from voicing their negative opinions!  

                                Hoping to attract the gold fish. 

The farm, I have learned, is the remnants of the original farm, begun around 1770, to serve the Dutch East India ships traveling between the Netherlands and Java.  A three hundred year old pear tree still produces fruit on a small plot, now surrounded by suburbia.  
 http://www.ozcf.co.za  (link to Oranjezicht City Farm)

Having described some of the less flattering aspects of Cape Town, I must say that the city is stunningly beautiful, situated as it is between the Atlantic Ocean and the very distinctive, flat topped Table Mountain.   On a clear day, everything seems to stand out in sharp relief.  Other days, a deep fog has obscured the mountain, reminding us of a summer day in Maine. We are waiting for the rare sight of a white cloud covering just the top of the mountain, looking like a tablecloth on the table.  

Bruce walking in our neighborhood, with Table Mountain in the back. 

                     Lion's Head extends from the end of Table Mtn.

Looking toward downtown, from our high neighborhood, with Table Bay in the background.  

One part of the busy waterfront with fog hanging over the mountain.  

As for architecture, the residential area contains a mix of sweet Victorian era bungalows with fancy ironwork, such as we saw in New Zealand, and modern, glassy structures - all climbing the steep incline to the mountain.  At times, the city has reminded us of the hills of Dunedin or Wellington, NZ, or San Francisco.  We've been getting our exercise, traipsing up & down from the seaside city center to our apartment on the hillside.  

                         This house reminded me of a wedding cake.      

The prominent, symmetrical gable is a characteristic of Cape Dutch architecture.  

                     Modern glass and angular design.  Looks pricey!

One of the areas that I was eager to visit was the neighborhood called Bo-Kaap, the historic Cape Malay area.  After our morning of teaching, followed by lunch and a cool beer (it was our only hot day, so far), Vanessa and I joined a walking tour of Bo-Kaap.  Known as the center of the Malay culture, even now,  the original Malays were brought to Cape Town as slaves in the 1600's from Malaysia.  A vibrant Muslim culture continues, clustered around the oldest mosque in the country, plus 10 others.  I would love to be in the area when the calls to prayer are done by all 11 mosques!  Our guide reported that it's quite an experience!  

                       Two of the mosques in Bo-Kaap

One characteristic of Bo-Kaap that draws people are the colorful houses, painted in a rainbow of happy, picturesque hues.  No one knows why, but, since the tradition is about 25 years old, one theory is that it's a reflection of Nelson Mandela's "rainbow nation".  

                                           Bo-Kaap colors

                                     Vanessa & I, being colorful.  

Being in the city, the wildlife that we've seen has been limited to birds - but they are pretty prominent!  

          A flock of blue-headed guinea hens, outside our house. My guide book describes them as "gregarious"!  

 The Egyptian goose is common and is quite a nuisance on the urban farm.  


There's lots more to tell but I'll stop for now and send this post on its way.  This weekend we've been invited to accompany V & G to Graham's aunt & uncle's home in Somerset West, a town located in the wine-growing area, about an hour away.  That will be the start of a road trip along the southern coast.  

Hell on Earth

Hell on Earth        March 7, 2018

(post written by Bruce Webb)

Prior to our visit to Krakow, Poland, I knew that Schindler's List, a movie about the Holocaust, had been filmed there, the actual location of the story.  I have seen the movie and have read much about the Holocaust, so I was interested in visiting Auschwitz, the largest concentration camp built by the Nazis, not far from Krakow.  Linda was ambivalent about the venture because of the subject matter.  In the end, she decided to go, so we signed up for a tour of Auschwitz, located in the town of Oswiecim, 35 miles west of Krakow.  

On a frigid morning, we gathered with our small group and boarded a minivan for Oswiecim, where the 3 different camps are located.  The German SS had selected this location for a couple of reasons:  the town was the site of a Polish Army base and had a large number of barracks and buildings; the site is on a major railway line to facilitate transportation to the camps; and the town was thought to be far enough East to be largely hidden from world view.  

As we rolled along through the countryside, we watched a movie about the liberation of the camp by the Soviet Army in January, 1945.  The film was shot by a Soviet Army cameraman who was documenting the fighting and had been present to film the liberation.  His testimony was moving, as were the scenes of the prisoners greeting their liberators.  We sadly learned that the only prisoners freed were those who had been left behind by the Nazis, due to their fragile condition.  

We were surprised by the numbers of people touring the facility on a bleak and freezing day in early March.  The parking lot was filled with large tour buses and many people, including lots of high school groups.  We were somewhat put off by the "touristy" nature of the place but soon understood that many people, like us, want to witness what happened there and try to grasp the reality of the horror.

                            Auschwitz 1 brick buildings

We started out at the original camp, known as Auschwitz 1, the site of the old army base.  We had a wonderful guide, David Kennedy, a Polish American fellow from Chicago who now lives in the town of Oswiecim.  He did an excellent job of explaining what we were witnessing in a very clear and respectful way.  We were pleased that his tenor was reverential yet informative and that we could easily hear his every word through individual headsets.  

We witnessed the barracks where hundreds of prisoners were crammed together without heat, adequate sanitary facilities, or food.  These folks were essentially slave laborers who were expected to work until they died, only to be replaced by others.  We witnessed the piles of eyeglasses, shoes, luggage, and personal items that were confiscated from prisoners and were shocked by the huge piles that represented only 40,000 people out of the million plus prisoners who passed through the camp.  We also witnessed the notorious 

building 11, where prisoners were tortured by the SS and then killed by firing squad.

After an hour, we piled into the van and were driven to Auschwitz-Birkenau, the much larger camp a few kilometers away.  This camp was built by slave labor from the original camp and is huge by comparison.  This was where the majority of people were killed in the gas chambers - over 75% were gassed within hours of their arrival by train.  We wandered around the iconic buildings where the prisoners arrived by train and were selected for gassing, slave labor, or medical experimentation.  We saw the huge piles of rubble where the two largest gas chambers stood before being blown up by the Nazis just prior to the arrival of the Soviets in January, 1945.

Iconic arrival building at Birkenau, with train tracks leading to it

We entered one smaller gas chamber that had not been demolished and learned about the process by which prisoners were killed by Zyklon B pellets dropped from the ceiling.  One enduring image was the scratches on the walls made by desperate prisoners in their last minutes before dying.  The horror was unfathomable and the scale of the killing was even more so.  

We went into a brick barracks where prisoners had lived and saw the crowded, primitive conditions that the prisoners had endured.  We also walked by the double rows of high voltage electric fencing and trenches designed to prevent escape.  As we wandered back through the camp to our waiting van, we were impressed by the scale of the place - it really is a huge site and a mixture of intact buildings and some foundations where buildings once stood.  We again were struck with the bleakness of the site on such a cold day and were happy to head back to the warmth of the van.  

We were both glad that we had visited Auschwitz-Birkenau, in spite of the difficulty of trying to take it all in.  We were moved by the resilience of the survivors and the creativity and luck needed to survive.  We can testify to the grossest depravity of which humans are capable.  We are grateful that the Polish government and a large number of individual contributors have combined to make it possible to keep this museum open and available for all to see.  We are also aware of how this could all happen again and the potential for great evil that still exists.  It is sobering to realize that we are living in perilous times where these horrors could revisit the human race.  We must vigorously guard against a recurrence.  

Pierogis and Pisankis

Pierogis and Pisankis              March 6, 2018

"The beast from the east", as the NY Times has dubbed the winter weather here in Europe, is aptly named, as far as we're concerned!  It's cold!!  Last week the Times reported that one recent day the recorded temps in this area were actually colder than those at the North Pole. Yikes!  Hot mulled wine has become my new friend.  Even with a second pair of gloves worn atop my first pair, my hands survive only if I keep them up balled up inside my pockets.  Of course, I can't keep them there for long, not when there are photo op's.  Older women wearing fur coats are a common sight. Young folks swathe themselves in long scarves, wrapped multiple times around the neck. Ah, well, Sunday was a bit warmer, with families out walking on a rare sunny day.  Monday, our day to leave town, promised to be balmy, with temps predicted to be in the 40's.  We spent the day on a bus traveling back to Prague - with gray skies following us!

Ready to do battle with "the beast from the east".  Every day we emerged hopeful, willing it to be warmer.  That was before our fingers and toes went numb!  

The Barbican, part of the defense system.  Doesn't it seem like a fairy tale building?  

Despite the frigid temps, we have enjoyed Krakow a lot!  It's a beautiful old, old city, almost fairy tale-like, with its historic buildings left intact after a troubled history in this part of the world.  ("Troubled history" is an understatement.) 

Located in the southern part of Poland, not far from the Slovakian border, Krakow was the capital of Poland prior to the 1600's.  It's been a stop on the trade route from the east for a thousand years. While Poland, like Hungary, is oriented to the west now, I think it's fair to say that it has been influenced by its proximity to Moscow and the Ukraine.

Long a center of culture and learning, the city is home to Jagiellonian University, which was founded in 1364, making it one of the oldest surviving universities in the world.  The current 50,000 member student body brings a liveliness to the city.  One of our favorite tours was of the Collegium Maius, the oldest building at the university.  We had originally ducked into the courtyard just to see the medieval timepiece show of wooden figures that pop out of a window and parade across to another window - on every odd hour.  Then we discovered the warm gift shop! We ended up with a tour of the building, along with 3 other hardy souls.  Two of them were friends, a Pole and a Japanese, on a quirky adventure, chasing Chopin.  They had come to see a temporary display highlighting the relationship between Chopin and his female Scots benefactor, Jane Stirling.  The official tour focused on one of the university's most famous alums, Copernicus.  We saw his scientific equipment and also the first globe to ever depict the American continent (in 1510)!  

                     Collegium Maius courtyard, 15th century!

Being the smallest of the three cities that we've visited, Krakow is easy to get around on foot. Everything begins with the Old Town, where the fabulous plaza, called the Rynek, is ringed by gorgeous old buildings.  

One of the most famous buildings in Krakow, Cloth Hall, built in the 14th century, as a center for the cloth business.  It now dominates the Rynek Plaza.  

On our first day in town, we toured the underground excavations under the Rynek.  At home in Maine, sister-in-law Monika, a Polish native, had arranged tickets for us, along with a personal guide!  It was pretty amazing to see the remains of medieval Krakow life, unearthed directly below the busy plaza, including 500-year-old artifacts, such as pottery shards, gold rings, weights, leather shoes, even fragile pieces of fabric.  Outside, up on the present day Rynek, all the typical signs of a vibrant 2018 city are on display:  speakers, hawkers, picturesque horse & carriages, tourists, students, and more. 

             These guys reminded us a bit of Quebec City.  

An "angel" on the Rynek, mesmerizing the little child - and Bruce - with the flapping of her wings!  

One of the main attractions on the plaza is St. Mary's Basilica.  From its tower, the hejnal is played every hour.  Legend has it that a trumpeter was in the process of alerting the townsfolk to an imminent attack by the Mongols  - in the 1200's - when he was shot in the throat by an arrow, abruptly stopping his musical warning.  In remembrance, a live trumpeter plays the same tune, the hejnal, every hour, 24 hours a day! stopping at the same place in the song.  I had learned about this tradition through reading The Trumpeter of Krakow, a delightful Young Adult book, written by an American, Eric Kelly, who had lived in Poland (and, coincidentally, retired to Chebeague Island, off the coast of Portland, Maine :).  

We were never able to spot the trumpeter but we think he was posted in the upper, gray, pointed parts of the steeple on the left.  


Bookended with the tour of the Underground Rynek, on our last day in Krakow, we visited the Ethnographic Museum, which is much more interesting than the name would suggest - especially for me :).  Even Bruce, my anti-museum guy, was impressed by the reconstructed country houses from the last century.  A typical old, one-room school, complete with a massive tiled stove, reaching from floor to ceiling, and a photo on the wall of the king, along with a crucifix, and fancy traditional cut-paper window decor, called to me. 

 

                           Traditonal Polish cut paper window decor

An astonishingly large display of mannequins wearing typical folk outfits from the various regions of Poland stretched the length of a long room.  It was colorful and charming with embroidered vests, flowery headpieces, and white blouses on the women, and hunter's caps, white wool pants, and dark cloaks featuring decorative buttons on the men.  

Lined up, looking like a welcoming committee to old-world Poland!

I loved the temporary spring display of intricately decorated Easter eggs - pisankis - a special Polish folk art that I had forgotten about.  In retrospect, there was little commercialism in Krakow around the approaching Easter holiday, as we've seen in Western European cities.    

                 pisankis, Polish Easter eggs, intricately painted

Like Prague and Budapest, Krakow has a Jewish town, Kazimierz, where Jews have lived for hundreds of years.  In fact, over the centuries, Kazimierz was a destination for Jews fleeing from all over Europe.  The ghetto that was created by the Nazi across the Vistula River is where Schindler's factory was located.  Nowadays, several synagogues can be seen in Kazimierz, along with a lively resto scene, many featuring Jewish food and klezmer music, as well as galleries and bars, etc., similar to Budapest. 

We chose to visit the Galicia Jewish Museum, housed in an old factory, which tells the story of Polish Jews in a new way.  Under the creative direction of two Brits, a photographer and a social anthropologist, photographs of Jewish sites in cities and small villages, now mostly forgotten and abandoned, are displayed with stories about the rich culture that has been lost.  It evokes sadness at this loss and at the horrific events that led to it.  The good news is that Jewish life in Poland is making a steady comeback.  Coincidentally, an American man heads up the Jewish Community Center here.  We know that, because he wrote a letter in the NY Times last week, regarding Poland's current situation in relation to Jews.  He was hopeful, which is encouraging.

                                   A quaint square of Kazimierz

On that note, Bruce has written a piece about our trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau, a difficult day but one that, after much internal struggle, I finally decided to undertake.  I'm glad now that I could witness and pay homage to the victims by my simple presence.  

Stained glass windows by Wyspianski at St. Francis Basilica

By contrast, the St. Francis Basilica was an unexpectedly happy venue.  I had wanted to see the stained glass windows by the acclaimed art nouveau artist, Stanislaw Wyspianski.  The windows were lovely, but I was totally taken aback by the incredibly gorgeous painted walls and ceilings!  A starry sapphire blue sky looked down on walls of sunflowers and pansies and colorful designs.  Everywhere that I turned, another visual delight awaited. The National Museum has more of this amazing artist's work, mostly pastels, and I ventured off on my own one day for a look at them.  In writing this blog piece, I learned that Saint Maximilian Kolbe was a young monk at St. Francis Basilica.  With a nearby church at home bearing his name, we had been moved when we were reacquainted with his story of sacrifice during our tour of Auschwitz, where he died.  

                               wall detail in St. Francis Basilica

Speaking of religion, I have been surprised to see men in brown robes and women in habits - and they are young!  Of course, this is the city where beloved Pope John Paul served before he became Pope.  The church still seems to play a strong role in the life of the Polish people.  

Pickle soup, sour rye soup, mushroom soup in a bread bowl, brilliantly colored and flavored clear beet soup, grilled Polish sauage, potato pancakes with sour cream, boiled potatoes with dill and butter, stuffed cabbage rolls, doughnuts, street pretzels - and pierogis, pierogis, pierogis, those lovely little stuffed pasta turnovers (referred to here as dumplings)!  Kinda skimpy on fresh fruit and green salad but such a delicious food heritage, especially for cold weather! 

                                     Yummy pickle soup! Really!  

                                        Pierogis:  addictive!  

We stumbled upon a resto, Morskie Oko, serving delicious food and meeting all of our other requirements, too  - cozy setting with candles, a fireplace sending off warm waves of heat, and fiddle music - all in a folkloric setting featuring typical lace tablecloths, sturdy wooden furniture, & mountain village artifacts.  We visited 3 times in our week in Krakow.  One day we even had a young waiter give us a 10 minute lesson in Polish pronunciation and spelling ("orthography", as he called it)!    http://www.morskieoko.krakow.pl/

                               Musicians at Morskie Oko resto

Bruce & his new Krakow friend.  We had to say "do widzenia" to Krakow on Monday, the 5th of March.  

We have learned a lot about Poland during our seven days in the charming city of Krakow.  With Monika, Tomek, and Marek as part of our family, this city and nation hold a special fondness for us.    

We are now on an indirect pathway to South Africa, via Prague & London.  As the Senior Nomads note, what do we have, if not time? Btw, I really enjoy their blog: http://seniornomads.com/#home-section

By late Friday afternoon, we should be in Cape Town, South Africa,  where a severe water shortage is taking place!  We're already brushing up on ways to save water!