Independence from Spain in Guatemala (and most of Central America) took place on September 15, 1821. For Xela, where the signing of the document happened, Independence Day is a very important holiday, and celebrations stretch out over the course of two weeks. People flock here from all over the region, and there is reportedly not a free hotel room to be had in the entire city. On the days leading up to the actual holiday, various kinds of bands marched around the city, comprised of little children one day, bigger kids another day, etc. On Wednesday evening, we went to the hub of the city, Parque Central, about 6 pm to watch the action with our student friends - and thousands of other people. It was dark by the time that things got going. We found a spot to watch, and being gringos, we easily towered over most other spectators. The bands for that evening seemed to be starting their march right in front of us. Each band was led by a student holding an identifying banner telling the name of their school. The kids ranged in age and were decked out in fairly elaborate matching satin outfits. Girls twirling batons and performing dance steps in time to the music were followed by boys - and a few girls - playing trumpets, marimbas, and BIG drums. Some of the drummers carried 3-4 drums, suspended from straps around their necks. Each band played for 10-15 minutes before moving on and being followed by another band that played in front of us for 10-15 minutes.
While this was happening, Dominoes pizza guys were hocking pizza; guys with 50 bags of colorful cotton candy hanging from T-shaped poles paraded back and forth; balloon sellers, and young guys demonstrating bouncing balls with lights inside tried to entice the audience to part with their money. It was pretty interesting, but after an hour or so, we tired of standing. Our young friends went off in search of a wine bar. We headed off for a bite to eat and then back to our house. The streets were clogged with pedestrians and cars. Minivans stuffed with people inched along, their door attendants hanging out and yelling ¨feria, feria!¨ to indicate that their destination was the big fair on the outskirts of town. It´s apparently the biggest fair in Central America but we had decided that we could do without a Latino Fryeburg Fair, a magnet for pickpockets and backpack slashers, we had heard. Back in our room, the entire night was punctuated with the sounds of nearby concerts and ¨bombas¨ exploding. Xela was welcoming Independence Day!
The next day, the actual holiday, we had offered to cook dinner for our host family. We spent the morning gathering a few last minute ingredients for a tagine. Not exactly American cuisine but one of Bruce´s specialties. We shared the cooking area in the kitchen with Lilian and her sisters who were preparing a chicken mole and some ¨garnachas¨ for a friend who was having family arrive from Guatemala City. It was fun to be together in this cozy kitchen, creating food, trying to speak Spanish, watching new dishes come together while traditional marimba music played on the radio in the background.
Isabel and her plate of garnachas
While this was happening, Dominoes pizza guys were hocking pizza; guys with 50 bags of colorful cotton candy hanging from T-shaped poles paraded back and forth; balloon sellers, and young guys demonstrating bouncing balls with lights inside tried to entice the audience to part with their money. It was pretty interesting, but after an hour or so, we tired of standing. Our young friends went off in search of a wine bar. We headed off for a bite to eat and then back to our house. The streets were clogged with pedestrians and cars. Minivans stuffed with people inched along, their door attendants hanging out and yelling ¨feria, feria!¨ to indicate that their destination was the big fair on the outskirts of town. It´s apparently the biggest fair in Central America but we had decided that we could do without a Latino Fryeburg Fair, a magnet for pickpockets and backpack slashers, we had heard. Back in our room, the entire night was punctuated with the sounds of nearby concerts and ¨bombas¨ exploding. Xela was welcoming Independence Day!
The next day, the actual holiday, we had offered to cook dinner for our host family. We spent the morning gathering a few last minute ingredients for a tagine. Not exactly American cuisine but one of Bruce´s specialties. We shared the cooking area in the kitchen with Lilian and her sisters who were preparing a chicken mole and some ¨garnachas¨ for a friend who was having family arrive from Guatemala City. It was fun to be together in this cozy kitchen, creating food, trying to speak Spanish, watching new dishes come together while traditional marimba music played on the radio in the background.
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