This first week in Thailand has flown by. It is SUCH a new and different culture for us! I am grateful for the limited knowledge of Thai culture that I do have, thanks to studying this fascinating nation several times with Deb Smith and the kindergarteners at Breakwater.
As I write this in our hotel room (the Lamphu Tree House Hotel), located beside a quiet old canal, it is early evening and the glass doors are wide open to the tiny balcony outside our room on the 4th floor. The air is still fairly hot. Our swimsuits are drying on a hangar after our dip in the small hotel pool to cool off from our long walk today. Even though we are in a city of millions, there are a few trees in this old section of the city and I can hear exotic-sounding birds squawking and chirping. As I look out from the balcony, I see corrogated tin rooftops on one- or two-story homes/businesses nearby. Beyond them are old apartment buildings and in the far distance some high rise buildings and golden temple spires.
Leading away from the canal is a small path, lined with a dozen or so birdcages. I can see a spirit house in the corner of someone's yard. It is a tiny temple replica, said to calm the spirit of the land and assure blessings. The home owner/business owner brings food and flowers for the spirit each day and says a small prayer. There is actually a spirit house in the corner of our hotel garden.
Every morning we hear a loudspeaker from the nearby boys' school, located in an extensive temple complex. There is some singing, which we imagine to be the national anthem, as well as long periods of announcements. We marvel at the students' ability to sit cross-legged on the outdoor pavement for such a long time.
During the past few days, we have had the wonderful good fortune to spend time with New Zealand friends, Vicki and Simon, as well as a Portland friend, Arline! Vicki and Simon are finishing a 20 month world odyssey, and, needless to say, are intrepid travelers with a spiritual approach to the wonders of life. They have inspired us in our own adventures.
The Webb's and Vicky and Simon at the Jim Thompson house in Bangkok. Jim Thompson was an American who invigorated the marketing and sale of Thai silk and high quality crafts. His house is a beautiful traditional Thai house, situated on a canal.
Arline is about to embark on a 10 day biking trip in the northeast of Thailand with a Breakwater family, Dtaw Tiparos, Katie Murray and their two sons, Tahn & Cody. We are so impressed with the determination of this woman, who is not young and has not done any previous biking - though she has been training on a stationary bike for several months. Go, Arline!!
After our first five days in Thailand, here are some initial impressions:
* We've never seen such devotion & affection for a king! (Not that we've spent much time in monarchies!) Over-sized posters dominating street intersections, gigantic gold-framed photos for sale along the street, small photos displayed in restaurants and stores. King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit are everywhere! (Incidentally, the kinders once sent birthday greetings to the King.)
* Monks with shaved heads and eyebrows, dressed only in brilliant orange robes and sandals, are commonly seen. Yesterday, we encountered a single file line of about 30 monks of all ages (only male) returning from their morning walk to collect alms. They each carried a simple metal bowl. Some of the bowls contained plastic bags of food stuff that had been donated by the people - in appreciation for the spiritual work of the monks.
* The temples are numerous and almost beyond description in their ornateness! Gold leaf covering massive spires. Detailed, intricate designs made with lots of small mirrors and ceramic flowers. Each temple seems to be part of a complex of buildings which are walled off from the bustle of the streets.
* There is such a gentle and respectful approach to the customer, manifested in soft-spoken greetings and slight bowing of the head.
* At the same time, there is a widespread and intense sales pitch directed at tourists by street folks who hope to sell a ride in a tuk-tuk (a small, open, 3-wheeled, motorized, FAST vehicle) to a tourist site, along with a visit to a tailor or jewelry shop. These guys can seem so earnest and sincere, totally taking in those of us who are too trusting. Having said that, SOME of them really are reasonably honest. As you may be able to tell, we have had experience in this realm!
Tuk-tuk, ubiquitous form of public transport
* Street food is being cooked everywhere you glance! We have stayed totally away from street food but we may have to soften that stance. At Vicki's suggestion, we did have a Thai pancake which is a crepe filled with bananas, cooked right in front of you on a hot griddle. Yummy. Vicki also advises not eating any meat from these stands and only food that you witness being cooked.
Bruce and Vicki ordering an ice coffee from a street vendor
* Water transport is available all through the city, on canals, as well as the historical main artery, the Chao Phraya River (River of Kings). We took a long boat to get to the Jim Thompson House. The boat was powered by a big engine and roared past canal-front houses with leafy trees overhanging, at points. Lovely.
Canal boat offering passenger service
* Mornings are cool as we eat breakfast outdoors beside the pool. Fairly soon, however, the temperature climbs and it's quite hot, but not unbearably so. We wouldn't think of complaining, in any case, given the reports of snow and freezing rain back home!
* Other parts of the city are exciting centers of commerce with fancy steel and glass high rise buildings, expensive hotels and restaurants, and beautiful parks (complete with 4 foot-long lizards!). Vicki and Simon's friends are working to open the first Holiday Inn Express in Southeast Asia. Apparently, this is where the action is now! Lonely Planet refers to Bangkok as a sexy broad!
Glitzy apartment lobby in Bangkok
So, from sexy Bangkok, ta ta for now. Tonight we take an overnight train to Chiang Mai in northeast Thailand, where we'll be volunteering in an international school with Dori and Dan's friends, Barb and Paul.
As I write this in our hotel room (the Lamphu Tree House Hotel), located beside a quiet old canal, it is early evening and the glass doors are wide open to the tiny balcony outside our room on the 4th floor. The air is still fairly hot. Our swimsuits are drying on a hangar after our dip in the small hotel pool to cool off from our long walk today. Even though we are in a city of millions, there are a few trees in this old section of the city and I can hear exotic-sounding birds squawking and chirping. As I look out from the balcony, I see corrogated tin rooftops on one- or two-story homes/businesses nearby. Beyond them are old apartment buildings and in the far distance some high rise buildings and golden temple spires.
Leading away from the canal is a small path, lined with a dozen or so birdcages. I can see a spirit house in the corner of someone's yard. It is a tiny temple replica, said to calm the spirit of the land and assure blessings. The home owner/business owner brings food and flowers for the spirit each day and says a small prayer. There is actually a spirit house in the corner of our hotel garden.
Every morning we hear a loudspeaker from the nearby boys' school, located in an extensive temple complex. There is some singing, which we imagine to be the national anthem, as well as long periods of announcements. We marvel at the students' ability to sit cross-legged on the outdoor pavement for such a long time.
During the past few days, we have had the wonderful good fortune to spend time with New Zealand friends, Vicki and Simon, as well as a Portland friend, Arline! Vicki and Simon are finishing a 20 month world odyssey, and, needless to say, are intrepid travelers with a spiritual approach to the wonders of life. They have inspired us in our own adventures.
Arline is about to embark on a 10 day biking trip in the northeast of Thailand with a Breakwater family, Dtaw Tiparos, Katie Murray and their two sons, Tahn & Cody. We are so impressed with the determination of this woman, who is not young and has not done any previous biking - though she has been training on a stationary bike for several months. Go, Arline!!
After our first five days in Thailand, here are some initial impressions:
* We've never seen such devotion & affection for a king! (Not that we've spent much time in monarchies!) Over-sized posters dominating street intersections, gigantic gold-framed photos for sale along the street, small photos displayed in restaurants and stores. King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit are everywhere! (Incidentally, the kinders once sent birthday greetings to the King.)
* Monks with shaved heads and eyebrows, dressed only in brilliant orange robes and sandals, are commonly seen. Yesterday, we encountered a single file line of about 30 monks of all ages (only male) returning from their morning walk to collect alms. They each carried a simple metal bowl. Some of the bowls contained plastic bags of food stuff that had been donated by the people - in appreciation for the spiritual work of the monks.
* The temples are numerous and almost beyond description in their ornateness! Gold leaf covering massive spires. Detailed, intricate designs made with lots of small mirrors and ceramic flowers. Each temple seems to be part of a complex of buildings which are walled off from the bustle of the streets.
* There is such a gentle and respectful approach to the customer, manifested in soft-spoken greetings and slight bowing of the head.
* At the same time, there is a widespread and intense sales pitch directed at tourists by street folks who hope to sell a ride in a tuk-tuk (a small, open, 3-wheeled, motorized, FAST vehicle) to a tourist site, along with a visit to a tailor or jewelry shop. These guys can seem so earnest and sincere, totally taking in those of us who are too trusting. Having said that, SOME of them really are reasonably honest. As you may be able to tell, we have had experience in this realm!
* Street food is being cooked everywhere you glance! We have stayed totally away from street food but we may have to soften that stance. At Vicki's suggestion, we did have a Thai pancake which is a crepe filled with bananas, cooked right in front of you on a hot griddle. Yummy. Vicki also advises not eating any meat from these stands and only food that you witness being cooked.
* Water transport is available all through the city, on canals, as well as the historical main artery, the Chao Phraya River (River of Kings). We took a long boat to get to the Jim Thompson House. The boat was powered by a big engine and roared past canal-front houses with leafy trees overhanging, at points. Lovely.
* Mornings are cool as we eat breakfast outdoors beside the pool. Fairly soon, however, the temperature climbs and it's quite hot, but not unbearably so. We wouldn't think of complaining, in any case, given the reports of snow and freezing rain back home!
* Other parts of the city are exciting centers of commerce with fancy steel and glass high rise buildings, expensive hotels and restaurants, and beautiful parks (complete with 4 foot-long lizards!). Vicki and Simon's friends are working to open the first Holiday Inn Express in Southeast Asia. Apparently, this is where the action is now! Lonely Planet refers to Bangkok as a sexy broad!
So, from sexy Bangkok, ta ta for now. Tonight we take an overnight train to Chiang Mai in northeast Thailand, where we'll be volunteering in an international school with Dori and Dan's friends, Barb and Paul.
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