Holy Week in Alozaina

Holy Week in Alozaina                March 28, 2016

We could hear the drums beating out the slow rhythm as we sat in our little house down over the hill from the church and the town plaza.  Not knowing exactly when the parade would begin, we relied on hearing those sounds before rushing up to see it.  

Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Spain is filled with the ancient tradition of brotherhoods (confradias) which organize their members to march in parades (procesiones, en espanol) while carrying massive floats honoring Jesus and his mother, Mary.  We have heard from friends who know about such things, that there is a certain penance associated with this activity, since the floats are difficult - even painful - to carry.  But it is also viewed as an honor for which the participants pay a fee.  The individual confradias have their own bands, providing the holiday music as well as the beat in order for the float bearors to keep up a necessary swaying motion. 

The processions that we saw in Antigua, Guatemala, were much more somber and formal - it is a place with more sorrows.  Here in Alozaina, we were told, despite the obvious influence of the church, it is more social, more the carrying on of a tradition and passing along of that tradition to the children, rather than a highly religious rite. 

After the Palm Saturday/Sunday processions, described in an earlier post, the next one took place on Maundy Thursday evening.  I had asked a street cleaning lady what time it would happen, and she had filled me in.  But the biggest day for processions, here in Alozaina, was Good Friday.  Mrs. Lima, our favorite grocer, had already warned us that she would not be open that day.  We anticipated the events, not knowing times or exactly what to expect. When we heard the drums around noon, we sprang into action.  Friday was warm and sunny - and the plaza was crowded.  It was a perfect day for gathering in the plaza to greet neighbors and friends who had returned to the village for the Easter weekend.   Despite the serious occasion, there was a slightly festive feel to the gathering.  Little boys had had their hair cut, little girls wore new tights, young women tottered along on sky-high heels, the elders were dressed in church clothes.  

In all, there were 5 different floats, each distinguished by the robes that the participants wore and, of course, by the statues dominating the floats.  I have LOTS of photos!

Most of the confradias are composed of men, but this was a female "sisterhood".  

A few of the costumes included pointed hoods with eye holes.  A bit alarming in their resemblance to KKK hoods - but no relationship, I've read.  

A few women marched in black dresses and traditional lacy mantilla headcoverings held high with combs.

Two kids had a wonderful time swinging the smoky incense pot.  Well, HE had a wonderful time.  She apparently wrangled it away from him for a brief interlude but he had it back again very soon.  Who wants to swing a small basket? 

Easter Sunday's procession was smaller, just one float and this one carried by women.  The risen Jesus reigned from atop.  Children carrying ceramic bells led the way.  It was sweet - but I couldn't help but think of the women who would need to return home to cook a big dinner!   

So this brings us to the end of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Spain.  As always, these processions are compelling for us.  They harken back to times of such antiquity and mystery and devotion, especially for a couple of Protestants reared with much less pageantry.  

On Tuesday, Bruce and I will fly from nearby Malaga and make our way to the starting points for our long hikes: Porto, Portugal, for him and Winchester, England, for me.  We will each begin hiking on Friday, April 1, an apt date for seniors attempting to walk 100+ miles!  Bruce's hiking companion is our Gorham friend, Don Bouchard.  Mine are two PEI cousins, Dori and Peggy.  We will have 2.5 weeks to "get 'er done", at which point Bruce and I will meet up in Dublin and then return home in time for spring in Maine.  That's the plan, anyway :).  

Un Momento de Silencio

Un Momento de Silencio            March 24, 2016

We were walking along the street in Alozaina on Tuesday afternoon when we noticed the zeroxed flyer.  On closer inspection of the Spanish message, it was inviting everyone in town to a gathering at noon the next day.  The purpose was to stand together against the barbarity of the bombings in Brussels that very morning.  The event had been initiated by the Federation of Municipal Mayors.  We were astounded that a town the size of Alozaina could be and would wish to be so rapidly responsive to a world event.  We were determined to be there the next day (not difficult with an essentially blank schedule of activities).

So, on Wednesday at noon, a small group of locals and ex-pats gathered in front of town hall (the ayuntamiento), exchanging quiet, warm greetings, neighborly smiles, as well as kisses on both cheeks and gentle hugs.  For the ex-pats, I'm sure that this was a meaningful time, heavy with the awareness that we all travel through airports and subways in large cities to arrive in Alozaina. For the locals, it's a reminder that every European shares in the fate of this current grip of terrorist horror.   The simple statement of purpose - compassion for the victims and solidarity against barbarous acts of violence - expressed in Spanish and translated into English, took no longer than a moment itself, followed by the moment of silence.  

In that moment, I prayed for the victims and their families, as well as for the perpetrators with their misguided hatred and for their families.  

And then we slowly, peacefully had a few private words with each other, reaching out to newcomers and old friends alike, before going back to our lives.  

Bravo for this little town and its heartfelt gesture.  

  

A Quiet Week in Alozaina

A Quiet Week in Alozaina                  March 22, 2016

It's been a quiet week here in Lake Wobegon, rather in Alozaina :)! Bruce has been under the weather, struggling to shake off the last vestiges of the stomach flu.  We've spent days just reading, resting, doing household stuff, napping, keeping warm by the wood stove most days (temps are not balmy here in the hills) or sitting out on the deck on sunny days - with occasional forays up into our little town.  

This followed a burst of delightful socializing during our first weekend, when our PEI cousins had an overnight visit with us, prompting a little dinner party with our old friends, Rod and Alice Friend. Alice is an accomplished folk singer from Vancouver; and cousin, Brian Ellis, is a member of an award-winning family band from Prince Edward Island.  Both are skilled guitar players.  After dinner, we had a kitchen party here in Alozaina and felt privileged to be the audience!  

                             Alice playing folk songs, while Rod looks on.

The next day was fun, sharing our "typical pueblo blanco" with Brian and wife, Norma.  Their month in Malaga was their first trip to Spain, and they hadn't seen much outside of the big city.  So we strolled around Alozaina and then inevitably found our way to Bar Nuevo for beers and the menu del dia. They were lovely guests, and we were so pleased with their serendipitous appearance in our lives.  

All too soon, we were confined to the quiet of our self-imposed seclusion, as a result of the nasty bug that had laid claim to Bruce.  By the time that this past weekend rolled around, he was feeling a bit better and we were both ready for some diversion. We had invited another British friend for Saturday lunch.  I hadn't made Spanish tortillas for a while.  When they turn out well, they are oh-so-yummy.  This one was a keeper!  The afternoon was filled with interesting conversation about Britain's proposed exit from the EU and America's scary politics and the life of an ex-pat in southern Spain.  It's amazing how many activities are available here and in the surrounding area, including several singing groups, flamenco gatherings, theater groups, Spanish/English conversation groups, art groups.  Another friend, Jon Stein, had told us about a new "time bank" here in Alozaina, as well as various initiatives for sustainability.  Wow, all this in a small town of 2000!  

While we were lounging around our house this past week, Semana Santa (Holy Week) crept up on us.  On a Saturday evening outing to the town plaza - just behind our house and up about 100 stairs! - we happened upon a tiny little procession.  

Bruce is climbing some of the cement stairs leading to the town plaza.  

This parade was composed of about 20 "pilgrims" walking from a nearby town, two women in the lead carrying big blazing torches to light the night air and two other women carrying a cross made from sturdy tree branches with a wooden figure of Jesus on it.  The rest of group, following behind, was made up of all ages.  No band, no groups of men in robes - in fact, no special costumes at all.  It was much more simple and informal than the processions that we had seen in Guatemala.  Somehow, its simplicity accentuated its aura of devotion and authenticity.  The pilgrims broke into song as they entered the plaza, then made their way straight to evening mass at Santa Ana, the church that overlooks the village.  

The next day, Palm Sunday, Bruce's procession-radar was again working well.   Around 5 pm, we unexpectedly encountered a children's procession, everyone clad in shepherd's garb, carrying tall palm branches that waved high over their heads.  One of the kids, in the role of Jesus, rode a donkey into town.  The young, orange-robed local priest held a microphone and led the entourage in singing as they entered the square.  It was raining softly so they didn't linger but made their way to Santa Ana for another mass.  

The donkey was not invited to mass and waited near us, entertaining himself by looking at his reflection in the glass and trying to eat olive branches being held by onlookers.   

Never mind that this was Sunday - and Palm Sunday at that - our usual selection of cafe/bars were open and thriving as we continued up the main street.  We stopped into our favorite, Bar Nuevo.  It was full of noisy men watching a futbol game on the big screen tv.  We made our way to a quiet table in the back with a view of Sierra Prieta mountain out of the picture window and settled in for a beer and a plate of shrimp.  It was good to get out of the house for a bit.  

Today our brief excursion took us to the Lima family's "supermercado", next to Bar Nuevo on Calle Calvario.  It's about the size of the laundramat in Gorham and filled with virtually everything that you could need, IF you can find it, from rice cakes to window draperies and fresh lettuce.  We emerged with two bulging shopping bags.  We wonder if they shake their heads at the amount of food being consumed by these Americans, even when one is on a bland diet!  Our goal this week is to get Bruce back on the road, literally, before he hits the real road in Portugal next week!  

                                  The title Ahorro means "saving".

Our artist friends have websites where you can learn about their work:
Rod Friend, stained glass & pastel artist:  www.rodfriend.com
Alice Friend, artist & author:  www.holyspiritwisdomcards.com
Brian Ellis, musician: www.theellisfamilyband.com
Jon Stein, musician, writer, blogger: www.jonstein.co.uk/blog

Waiting for Spring

Waiting for Spring                   March 11, 2016

Guatemala to Maine to Spain, all in 4 days!  It seems pretty crazy - and maybe it was - but airlines being what they are, it was cheapest for us to fly home from Guatemala (making that a round trip) before setting off for Europe, where we each plan to undertake a long hike in early April.  

It was a very full weekend in Gorham  - but surprisingly unrushed.  We managed to pick up a few things for the next leg of our trip; have dinner on Saturday night with friends; have lunch with our son, Sam on Sunday;  get tax info mailed out; as well as attend the Democratic caucus on Sunday afternoon (good thing I did, as Hillary really needed me :), cook a meal for Jane and Don, our hosts; and watch the last episode of Downton Abbey!  All the things that we love:  family, friends, politics, and public tv!  By the time that Monday noon rolled around, we had switched out our bags and were refreshed and ready to go again.  We couldn't have done it without the generous hospitality of Jane Andrews and Don Bouchard!  They are the best!

It had been snowing as we arrived in Boston on Friday evening - and it was snowing as we left Portland on Monday.  Although it was just a dusting in both cases, the weather gods seemed to be thumbing their noses at us, hurrying us on our way, reminding us not to linger.  

When we planned our winter/spring adventure this year, we both wanted to do a long hike - but not until the weather had warmed up a bit.  Early April seemed like the earliest that we could trust temperatures to be accommodating.  So...what to do until then?  We decided to return to Alozaina, the small town in the Andalucian area of southern Spain, where we had spent 6 wonderful weeks in 2014. This time our stay would be for only 2.5 weeks, but it would be long enough to say hello to our friends there, do some pre-hike walking, and enjoy the bright, clear sun and the timelessness of ancient mountains, tinkling herds of goats, and tidy olive groves everywhere.  

Our flight landed us in Malaga, situated on the coast, about 25 miles east of Alozaina.  It's a sunny, Mediterranean city with a Roman amphitheater situated next to a high, historic Islamic castle, and a lively modern harbor with cruise ships coming and going.  In one of those coincidences of life these days, we met up with my PEI cousins, Brian and Norma Ellis, who happen to be vacationing there for a month.  It was a treat for us to be with family so far from home!  

Bruce, Brian, & Norma enjoying drinks on the 15th story of a Malaga hotel rooftop.

                                      This is what they were looking at. 

We've just now woken up in Alozaina in the very same sweet house which we rented in 2014.  Looking out of the glass doors this morning, I watched the sun light up the mountainside, casting shadows here and there, highlighting different facets, changing every few seconds.  Birds darted around, sometimes catching the light and glowing against a dark background, then swooping up high, turning black as they were silhoueted against the blue sky.  

                        The entrance arch to the town of Alozaina.

              Looking out on the mountain scene from our bedroom.

Not a bad place to wait for spring.  

What Are YOU Afraid Of?

What Are YOU Afraid Of?              March 3, 2016

The little nino with dark flashing eyes and jet black hair and a grin as big as a house came flying out of the classroom, flinging his arms around Bruce's legs, greeting him with a "Hola, Bruce!" That was Pablo, and he was VERY excited that Bruce and I were at Safe Passage, his school in the extremely impoverished neighborhood of the Guatemala City dump.  "Can I see your car, Bruce?" he had asked almost immediately.  When one's family doesn't own a car, this is a big deal.  I, too, remember those days in my childhood when a ride in a car was pretty cool, back when families had only one car.   However, on this day, we would be using a rented van with a driver to take Pablo, Charly, and Jordie, as well as Carlos, our Safe Passage guide, for lunch and an outing.

                      The boys, Jordie, Charly, and Pablo - and Bruce and I.

Pablo is the six year old, younger brother of Charly, a boy whom Bruce and I have been sponsoring for a couple of years.  Pablo's sponsors are our son, Matt, and his partner, Izik.  And Jordie is the 12 year boy sponsored by our church, First Parish UCC of Gorham, Maine.

One of our main reasons for choosing to return to Guatemala this year was to visit these boys at Safe Passage.   Sponsorship involves making a contribution to the program each month to help with operating expenses, as well as a couple of special annual donations to help buy a birthday gift and a Christmas gift for each child.  There are two or three opportunities each year to exchange notes with your sponsored child.  Since the notes usually must be translated (in both directions) and since the staff is very small and since there are 700+ sponsors for the 500 students, it's not realistic for lots of notes to go back and forth. These personal visits to the children are a highlight for all concerned.

On the way from the beautiful colonial city of Antigua, where we're staying right now, to grimy, congested Guatemala City, Carlos had filled us in on the latest news about the boys and their families. Like parents, we were pleased to hear how well these kids are doing.  Charly and Pablo were described as cheerful boys with great social skills, a lively intellect, and a supportive family.  Jordie is more reserved but he, too, is intelligent and studious, with a caring, religious family.

Once we were all assembled for our outing, the boys' mutual decision was a visit to the Children's Museum and lunch at the Pollo Campero fast food resto inside the museum.  (Pollo Campero is Guatemala's answer to McDonald's).  Bruce and I were impressed with how easily the decision was made among three kids of quite different ages.  Throughout the afternoon, it was apparent that these boys lacked the "entitled" feeling so common among kids back home. There was never a request for anything more that what was being offered.

As we sat at the table waiting for Bruce and Carlos to bring us our lunch order, Charly asked me an odd question (it seemed to me).  He wanted to know what I am afraid of.  It took me by surprise.  Having just heard from Carlos about rampant, random gang violence in the city, I said in my un-nuanced Spanish, "bad people".   Charly didn't blink and responded that he is afraid of water!  This seemed to be important information for me to know.   Hmm, I wondered if he were afraid that we might plan to go swimming.  (I had actually thought of it, but had discarded the idea as too complicated to carry out.) It turns out that none of the boys knows how to swim.  Good info to tuck away.  If he stays in the city, Charly may never need to know how to swim.  But it was a rather elemental, sobering question.

                   You can't beat fried chicken and fries for a yummy meal!

We also learned that the boys have aspirations, something that the program tries to instill.  I'm sure that their parents do, too.  Jordie wants to be a veterinarian; Charly, a pilot; and Pablo, a policeman.

 Playing Twinkle, Twinkle on the "body" marimba was really fun for Jordie (and me :)!

 Pablo was the first to attempt the climbing wall.  He's wearing his new tie-dyed t-shirt that the First Parish kids made for him and the other boys.  

The museum was delightfully and surprisingly lovely, extremely well managed and staffed with enthusiastic young people, well-supplied with materials, offering a variety of activities to appeal to different ages and learning styles.  All three boys took up the challenge to struggle up a climbing wall.  Jordie made it to the top and rang the bell.  Another center focused on how to make recylced paper - which struck me as highly ironic.  The families in the dump area are masters at recylcing.  They could probably teach the staff about the topic!   The demonstration on electricity held their undivided attention.   An outdoor "mini" city, with "roadways" and miniature traffic lights, was intended to teach kids about following rules of the road.  All in all, our time was over much too quickly, and we had to return to the school for the boys to be picked up by their families.  With kids, it's best to end on a high note.  We had all had a great time.

                    Pablo loved all the projects.  Here he is making paper. 

                                               Charly was a careful scientist. 

     All three boys were mesmerized by the presentation on electricity. 

                      Jordie was eager to find out if he conducts electricity. 

Back at Safe Passage, Jordie said a quick good-bye and headed off to an after-school activity, carrying his tie-dyed t-shirt and a book about snow, all made by the children in the First Parish Sunday School.   Charly and Pablo's mom and sister were waiting for us.  The boys were excited to show their t-shirts, as well as a photo album that I had put together for Charly.  Hugs all around, a sincere thank-you and blessing from their mom, and they, too, were on their way.

It had been a pretty fleeting get-together.  One can't help but wonder if it makes any real difference.  However, we believe in the Safe Passage program and its effectiveness and are grateful to be able to support it.  And, after all, having someone care about you, even someone who lives thousands of miles away, has to be a good thing.

BTW, What are YOU afraid of?

You can let me know the answer to this question - and/or your thoughts on any of my posts, by writing to me:  lwebb34@gmail.com!  I'd love to hear your feedback!  Thanks.

Eruption!

Eruption!                     March 2, 2016

Bright red-orange fire lit up the velvety black sky; molten lava oozed down the mountainside, hot coals tracing its descent.  Our BnB rooftop terrace here in Antigua gave us a view of this amazing sight last night. Unfortunately, I couldn't capture it on film, but it was a sight that we won't soon forget.   You can see other people's shots at this website: 

http://www.volcanodiscovery.com/fuego/news/56679/Fuego-volcano-Guatemala-4th-paroxysm-in-2016.html

Aptly named Vulcan Fuego had been puffing columns of smoke for a few days, with increasingly large clouds of ash being spewed into the air.  Everything outdoors was becoming a bit gritty, as a result.  We had seen that before, and it's not unusual.  However, seeing fire and lava jetting up was a new experience for us.  Although we had felt a slight trembling earlier in the evening, we felt no real danger.  I hoped that the small villages on the slopes would be ok. Our recent viewing of the movie, Ixcanul, had opened our eyes to the lives of people living high up on the mountainsides, where they have been pushed due to development of lower areas by wealthier segments of society.  They often live near fields covered by deep ash.    

Antigua, Guatemala, sits in a valley overlooked by 3 volcanoes, Vulcan Agua (Water); Vulcan Fuego (Fire); and Vulcan Acatenango.  Fuego is the only one that is currently active, albeit at a low level.  Hopefully, it stays low!  Our concern at the moment is that the ash deposit may affect air traffic from the city.  We have tix to fly out on Friday morning.  

Today is bright and clear and Fuego seems to be calmed down, for now.