Holy Week in Alozaina

Holy Week in Alozaina                March 28, 2016

We could hear the drums beating out the slow rhythm as we sat in our little house down over the hill from the church and the town plaza.  Not knowing exactly when the parade would begin, we relied on hearing those sounds before rushing up to see it.  

Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Spain is filled with the ancient tradition of brotherhoods (confradias) which organize their members to march in parades (procesiones, en espanol) while carrying massive floats honoring Jesus and his mother, Mary.  We have heard from friends who know about such things, that there is a certain penance associated with this activity, since the floats are difficult - even painful - to carry.  But it is also viewed as an honor for which the participants pay a fee.  The individual confradias have their own bands, providing the holiday music as well as the beat in order for the float bearors to keep up a necessary swaying motion. 

The processions that we saw in Antigua, Guatemala, were much more somber and formal - it is a place with more sorrows.  Here in Alozaina, we were told, despite the obvious influence of the church, it is more social, more the carrying on of a tradition and passing along of that tradition to the children, rather than a highly religious rite. 

After the Palm Saturday/Sunday processions, described in an earlier post, the next one took place on Maundy Thursday evening.  I had asked a street cleaning lady what time it would happen, and she had filled me in.  But the biggest day for processions, here in Alozaina, was Good Friday.  Mrs. Lima, our favorite grocer, had already warned us that she would not be open that day.  We anticipated the events, not knowing times or exactly what to expect. When we heard the drums around noon, we sprang into action.  Friday was warm and sunny - and the plaza was crowded.  It was a perfect day for gathering in the plaza to greet neighbors and friends who had returned to the village for the Easter weekend.   Despite the serious occasion, there was a slightly festive feel to the gathering.  Little boys had had their hair cut, little girls wore new tights, young women tottered along on sky-high heels, the elders were dressed in church clothes.  

In all, there were 5 different floats, each distinguished by the robes that the participants wore and, of course, by the statues dominating the floats.  I have LOTS of photos!

Most of the confradias are composed of men, but this was a female "sisterhood".  

A few of the costumes included pointed hoods with eye holes.  A bit alarming in their resemblance to KKK hoods - but no relationship, I've read.  

A few women marched in black dresses and traditional lacy mantilla headcoverings held high with combs.

Two kids had a wonderful time swinging the smoky incense pot.  Well, HE had a wonderful time.  She apparently wrangled it away from him for a brief interlude but he had it back again very soon.  Who wants to swing a small basket? 

Easter Sunday's procession was smaller, just one float and this one carried by women.  The risen Jesus reigned from atop.  Children carrying ceramic bells led the way.  It was sweet - but I couldn't help but think of the women who would need to return home to cook a big dinner!   

So this brings us to the end of Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Spain.  As always, these processions are compelling for us.  They harken back to times of such antiquity and mystery and devotion, especially for a couple of Protestants reared with much less pageantry.  

On Tuesday, Bruce and I will fly from nearby Malaga and make our way to the starting points for our long hikes: Porto, Portugal, for him and Winchester, England, for me.  We will each begin hiking on Friday, April 1, an apt date for seniors attempting to walk 100+ miles!  Bruce's hiking companion is our Gorham friend, Don Bouchard.  Mine are two PEI cousins, Dori and Peggy.  We will have 2.5 weeks to "get 'er done", at which point Bruce and I will meet up in Dublin and then return home in time for spring in Maine.  That's the plan, anyway :).