End of Classes and a Weekend Treat March 1, 2017
Our two weeks of Spanish classes absolutely flew by, what with 2 hours of daily class as well as homework each day, in addition to our other activities such as my teaching English three days a week; movie-watching three times with our friend, Lisa (we've seen most of the Oscar nominations now); my flu bug in the middle weekend that slowed us down temporarily; and the never-ending, it seems, process of arranging for the next steps of our adventure, ie rental of Airbnb's in Florida, Cuba & Alabama; car rental in Florida; plane reservations to Cuba and home from Memphis; financial planning between various currencies, making sure that we have enough quetzales but not too many :); shuttle rides within Guatemala; arrangements with Safe Passage to visit with "our" boys; etc, etc. Bruce takes care of most of the details, thank goodness - and then soothes himself with some fiddle playing! He was looking forward to the end of school just like a kid anticipating summer vacation!
On our last day of class, last Friday, the 24th, there was a little celebration to say good-bye and thanks for attending Jabel Tinamit Spanish School and for helping teach the teens. Several students were honored with thanks, including Bruce and me. The owners of the school, Candelaria and Gregorio, have a talent for making each of us feel special. Never letting pass an opportunity to expand our cultural knowledge, Candelaria also offered everyone tastes of various exotic Guatemalan fruits that we would never have tried otherwise, I'm sure. These included the sweet, orange-fleshed zapote; the purple, slippery-fleshed guandura; the seedy, delicious granadilla; and the red plum-like jocote with its thick, stubby stem.
Not only have our Spanish language skills improved (still not fluent, by any means), but we've also had an uplifting experience at this school! Being surrounded by ambitious, cheerful, forward-thinking staff is very pleasant. The reality of life in Guatemala is that it is extremely difficult, more so for Mayans than for anyone else. And yet, the Mayan owners and staff at Jabel Tinamit make the most of the opportunities that they are given, make sure to express gratitude for those gifts, work hard to improve their lives and give back to their community - and laugh a lot. The school radiates an infectious sense of upward mobility. We are lucky to have crossed paths with all of them for three years in a row!
That evening, back at our home-stay, Ana had prepared a simple but lovely little adios celebration, too. She had marinated black olives and made a big bowl of guacamole from the avocados in her front yard; fellow housemate, Juan, a nurse/artist who comes from Luxembourg, contributed some really good bread and cheese, as well as chocolates; and we contributed white wine, corn chips, and a tiny rum cake that Tiffany & Ross had given to us for Christmas. Housemate, Elizabeth, a 25 year old from NYC who has come to Pana for 2 years to work for a small American textile company, also joined us. So we had a little fiesta! We have so enjoyed Ana's company and her wise reflections on life.
How is Guatemala doing, in general? We have heard from several people that violence in this country is endemic, especially in Guatemala City, although our world of tourism is relatively sheltered from these realities. The violence grows worse every year, as gangs and drug cartels gain more and more power. Government and police corruption continue to be serious issues. The current president is a former comedian who has been in office for only a year but, during that time, his brother and son have been charged with corruption and are now in jail. At the same time, health care is shockingly limited to anyone but the wealthy and to foreigners who can pay the price. It's a burden to bear, the anxiety and the worry, and yet one goes on, trying to make a living and to enjoy the small laughs, the occasions for a happy gathering, the kindnesses of friends and family, the hope for a better future, and the inspiring beauty of art.
Speaking of art, Ana's daughter, Eloin, had her first art exhibit on Saturday. She has nearly completed her nurse's training and is working in a rural community about 6 hours from Pana. But art continues to be an interest, too. So, she hopped on a bus and arrived at Ana's mid-morning in time for us to have a quick chat before we had to leave. The four pieces that were shown in the exhibit were all fancifully & symbolically-envisioned parts of the body. Very cool.
As a treat for us, Bruce had booked a weekend at Casa del Mundo on Lake Atitlan. It had been over five years since we had been there, but it had remained a wonderful memory and we were looking forward to relaxing in its beautiful embrace.
We did nothing for the whole weekend except read and nap and gaze on the lake - and eat great food. www.lacasadelmundo.com. Evening meals are served family style by candlelight. This practice offers a great way to meet other travelers and share stories: the Danish couple, our age, who know Central America quite well; the two young American women, former college roommates who now teach kids at an eco-camp in Connecticut; the American woman who lives in Madison, Wisconsin, with her Guatemalan husband and two little boys; the Korean-American doctor here on a medical mission; the young woman from Toronto, alone on her first trip to Guatemala and her first vacation in three years. We ate and chatted and then retreated to our quiet sanctuary overlooking the lake. At night, the stars sparkled overhead while the lights of the Mayan villages twinkled around the lakeside. We'll remember this enchanting scene for a long time.
Monday morning came all too soon, and we boarded the launch for our ride back to Pana. On the way, we met a young American film and television writer who lives on the lake with his wife and small son. It's pretty interesting to encounter a variety of people doing creative things in a relatively remote area like this. He loves his life here and hopes to be able to stay long-term. After our 3 hour shuttle ride from Pana, we arrived in Antigua - which is where we are now.
Last evening we attended a free concert here in Antigua, outdoors on the plaza of a 16th c. church ruins, next to the Spanish Cultural Center. Chairs were set up facing the temporary stage. Colored lights turned the ancient church facade from red to blue to gold. The headless saints in the niches of the church, looking down on this scene, seemed so incongruous with the most discordant "jazz" music that I've ever heard. However, we were reminded that Antigua is a pretty sophisticated city. These musicians were a trio from Munich, who had arrived that day by way of Paris and Mexico City! Maybe the music was more appropriate than I had at first thought, what with all of the tensions in this society.
Tomorrow we leave Antigua and return to our fancy hotel in Guatemala City for one night, prior to leaving for the next phase of our adventure. Part of our reason for wanting to go to the Barcelo is to be able to host our Safe Passage boys at the swimming pool there. That experience will be my next post :). Stay tuned.
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