Panama Canal

Panama Canal                   February 8, 2019

To be honest, the Panama Canal is not something that I had given much thought to until Bruce proposed making it one of our destinations for this winter's travels.  During my lifetime, the canal has always existed, a vague foreign fact of life.  I took it for granted, not that I had much need to ever think about it.  It wasn't until I began reading David McCullough's Path Between the Seas that I gave it the respect that it deserves as one of the engineering marvels of all time.

The United States had wanted a path across the isthmus for many years in order, of course, to shorten the sea voyage between the east coast and west coast.  However, buoyed by their success in constructing the Suez Canal, it was the French who were the first to tackle the challenge during the 1880's.   They poured millions of dollars into the project and lost 22,000 lives due to tropical diseases, such as yellow fever and malaria, as well as other jungle related horrors.  Their persistence in trying to build a canal at sea level also led to their failure.  When they went bankrupt in 1889, a holding company took over and, after a decade and much lobbying, sold the land and equipment to the U.S. 

Forgotten in current times is that the canal was nearly built in Nicaragua.  Quite a struggle took place in Congress between those who favored Panama and those who favored Nicaragua.  Teddy Roosevelt had just become President.  He supported the Panama location, and the rest is history. 

With the American land grab in Panama, sometimes referred to as "gunboat diplomacy", the U.S. took on the challenge of creating a water route through the isthmus.  The first task for the Americans was dealing with yellow fever and malaria.  Dr. Gorgas, an Alabama physician,  had learned that these were mosquito-borne diseases.  He spent a couple of years taking steps to control mosquitoes in the Canal Zone, thus nearly eliminating the threat of these diseases.  However, even with this crucial improvement in work conditions, an additional 5000 lives were lost under the Americans, as a result of other diseases and accidents. 

The Americans upgraded the infrastructure in the Canal Zone as an enticement to attract workers.  

Among the unique solutions to the challenges presented by the geography in Panama, was the American decision to build a dam.  This would create a huge lake, Gatun Lake, and decrease the need for digging.  The French idea of a sea level project was dispensed with, and instead locks were built on each end of the canal, lifting ships up to the lake and finally lowering ships to the Pacific Ocean.  By the time the canal opened in 1914, this engineering feat had cost millions of dollars and thousands of lives.   The resulting marvel is what we experienced!   

Gatun Lake, the largest man-made lake in the world at the time it was made

Terracing and wire mesh help to keep the sides of the trench from sliding into the canal as a result of the torrential rainfalls in Panama.  

In recognition of the fact that many of the passengers on the Volendam had chosen this cruise specifically because of the Panama Canal transit, the company treated the event with a bit of festivity.  The day before, both a presentation on the history of the canal, as well as a documentary film were offered.  The sea schedule was to sail all night from Cartagena, Colombia, and arrive at the entrance to the canal around 7 am.  The front deck of the Volendam, usually off-limits, would be open for the day, beginning at 7:30, and "panama rolls", a Holland America tradition, would be served for the occasion.  We were left to wonder what sort of confection these would be - yummy yeast buns with a creamy filling, as it turns out. 

Bruce and I were up early to make the most of this event!  Shortly after sunrise, we emerged onto the deck at the aft end of the ship.  Scattered around the horizon were as many as 20 ships, all waiting for their scheduled time to enter the canal.   We learned that the canal is open 24 hours a day.   

           A ship on the horizon awaits its turn to enter the canal.

The first of three bridges that we went under, putting the continent back together!

Another special feature was having a Panamanian expert aboard, whose running commentary from the ship's bridge was broadcast all day.  This man had worked on the canal for many years and had a wealth of information to share.  The canal was turned over to the complete control of Panama in 1999.  

Early morning on the fore deck, enjoying panama rolls and watching the entrance into the canal.  

We had been encouraged to witness the voyage from different parts of the ship.  It was to take all day, not arriving on the Pacific side until   5 pm.  Going through the locks was definitely the most fascinating part.  The clearance on each side of the ship, once it was in a lock, appeared to be no more than 2 feet on each side.  Small trains on tracks, three on each side, pulled the ship through the locks.  

     Getting ready to enter the first lock, following another cruise ship.  In the channel beside us, approaching in the opposite direction, is a cargo ship.  

Looking down at the slim margin of space in the lock, as well as one of the small trains, pulling the ship.  

One of the fun activities was a "swim across the canal" - in the pool.  This one looks like a belly flop!   

            Panamanian tugs kept us on track as we exited the last lock.  

Finally, we could see the tall skyscrapers of Panama City in the distance as we approached the Bridge of the Americas and the Pacific Ocean.  It had been a fascinating voyage through what the American Society of Civil Engineers has ranked "one of the seven wonders of the modern world".  Bruce checked that one off his bucket list!  

                   Bridge of the Americas at the Pacific end of the canal.

One more post about the cruise and then we'll be into San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, where we are now!