February 28, 2020 Madrid Days
Less than a thousand miles, as the crow flies, can make a huge difference in weather and lifestyle! Madrid's blue, blue skies; balmy afternoons warm enough to sit outside comfortably for lunch; evening paseos on the wide public walkway along the skinny little Manzanares River - all were such a contrast to London, which we had thoroughly enjoyed! Viva la diferencia!
In Madrid, we returned to the Legazpi-Matadero neighborhood near the original apartment of our friend, Andrea, since we were familiar with the area from previous visits. Ironically, it's an area with many immigrants, especially those from the American "colonies". I found myself trying to pick out people who might have come from Guatemala or Honduras. In fact, I often thought that here was the mother country that had shared so much of its culture and language and had helped to populate so many of those nations that are struggling in Central America right now.
Our tiny Airbnb was located in a building that had a shabby outside appearance but was pristine and modern inside - perched on the 7th floor.
We are so impressed with the housing situation in Madrid. Massive groups of apartment buildings, designed in small pods, so that fast emergency exits are more possible; not too high, which allows light to enter them; plentiful small parks and playgrounds to add to the quality of life. The Spanish seem to be doing a good job of meeting the housing demand that challenges all cities, big and small, from Austin, Texas, to Portland, Maine.
The Legazpi-Matadero neighborhood has the benefit of being located next to a fabulous public space, the Madrid Rio Park, that has something for everyone. When a superhighway was re-located underground, space was freed up for a multi-faceted bonanza along the Manzanares River: fields for futbol; an expansive skateboard area; playgrounds; fountains; gardens; bridges; outdoor cafes - all bordering a wide, undulating walkway that is busy with bikers, inline skaters, baby-walkers, dog-walkers, old folks strolling, young folks getting their steps in, long benches for resting. What an incredible investment in public health and well-being - physical as well as social. I read that it was at least partially funded by the European Union, an example of cooperation across cultures. And it's a wonderful place for people-watching. We remembered it from our last visit in 2014. We loved it then and now!
Andrea - and the hope of a rendez-vous with her - was one of the main reasons that we had decided to make Madrid our next destination. We had met her at Safe Passage in 2011, nine years ago, living in the same boarding house in Antigua (Guatemala) while volunteering at Safe Passage together. Though only half our age, she was older than most of the other volunteers. She also was a delightful foodie and a smart, fun-loving young woman, and we have been friends ever since. In fact, we had visited her in Madrid later in the same adventurous year and then again in 2014. By then, she had a boyfriend, Angel, who had encouraged us to walk the Camino Ingles that year, one of our best experiences ever!
Our Saturday outing with Andrea and Angel began with a nearby outdoor food festival in the Matadero complex. Vendors had set up displays to sell local products, such as goat cheese, all kinds of preserved meats for which the Spanish are known, oodles of olives, handwork, even bags to purchase for recycling. A huge stage had been erected for a band, and little kids were dressed in fancy costumes for Carnival festivities.
From there we hopped a bus and went "downtown" to a classy little tapas bar where our hosts ordered a selection that included tiny spirals of tender purple & white calamari, an updated Russian potato salad, & the most delicate little filleted sardines in a mild vinaigrette - plus bebidas (drinks), vermuth for them which is the typical Madrid drink and tastes like Campari. I'll have to order one sometime :).
We lingered over these delicacies and discussed Andrea's job as the manager of 72 outlet stores (!) spread over southern Europe; her family; computer apps; our travels; and current events in Spain and the world. Angel is very knowledgeable and had lots to share about Spanish culture and history, as well as their own travels. We were excited to learn that they may visit us this fall for Angel's first trip to the USA!
Next on the agenda was a stop at a favorite Galician bakery for a tasting of 5 different cakes! Bruce must have been missing home as he chose an apple crumble. I chose an almond-pear tart. The Spanish cheesecake was my favorite, however. Mild and unadorned.
By now, we were very full and in need of a walk-about El Retiro Park. Having been there before, I had thought that it was a place for retirees - which there were lots of, btw. No, no, no. Retiro is another "false friend" of the Spanish language. It means "retreat" and makes so much more sense, since it was originally a park for the Spanish royals, where they could roam around privately. I wish that I had photos, but, alas, my camera was worn out for the day. Let's just say that the elegant Victorian glass house overlooking a small pond with swans gliding around was beyond charming!
On this beautiful sunny Sunday, the park was full of strolling families and lovers, giving me the feeling of being inside an impressionist painting. I expected to see a horse come prancing down the wide sandy pebbled walkway, being handled by a formally attired aristocrat. It all felt SO civilized.
The sun was setting as we emerged from our peaceful time at El Retiro and entered the urban hustle bustle. Madrid is a city of massive, majestic edifices, reminding one that this nation was once the proud reigning monarch of world colonial powers.
It was a much more humble, sweet moment, however, that will linger with me. As we made our way toward a subway to take us back to our neighborhood, Bruce suggested stopping on a bench for a rest. We were surrounded by lovely buildings. The evening light had colored the sky that beautiful pale pink and blue just above the horizon. Fancy Victorian iron street lamps had lit up. A moment before, we had passed a group of a dozen or so classical musicians, dressed in street clothes and arranged in a semi-circle on the wide sidewalk, surrounded by an appreciative audience standing and listening. We sat and listened, too, as the strains of Vivaldi's Four Seasons held us gently in its magical embrace. One of those special serendipitous travel moments.
Other sights and scenes from Madrid ...
After hugs and thanks to Andrea and Angel, we left Madrid the next morning for a FAST train ride (330 miles in less than 3 hours) to the south coast city of Malaga and on to the coastal town of Nerja, where we are now. It had been a quick 4 days in both London and Madrid. We were looking forward to more than a week in one location!
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