March 9, 2020
Girona, An Ancient City
Game of Thrones, anyone? Girona, Spain, has drawn new attention as the locale where some of the episodes of season six of the popular series were filmed, including on the steps of the Cathedral. Alas, that bit of info was lost on us, never having seen the show. However, we had heard good things about Girona for many years - none related to a tv show - and were excited when we realized that we could easily stop for 4 nights on our route from Spain to southern France.
Girona is located about 60 miles north of Barcelona, in the region of Catalonia. If that rings a bell from the news, it's because Catalonia is the part of Spain which is trying to break away and become independent. We associate this activity with Barcelona and were surprised to encounter such strong feelings of independence in Girona, too, though it makes sense. In fact, the US State Department issued a travel advisory for Catalonia last fall, unbeknownst to us until we stumbled upon this nugget of info after arriving. Oh, well. We're in France now, and none the worse for our time in Girona. In fact, we loved the city. It is a beautiful, medieval place, amazingly preserved, with residents who were unfailingly friendly and helpful to us.
If Frigiliana (last post) was a photographer's dream, then Girona is heaven itself. Between the stretch of buildings lining the Onyer River, with their lovely warm colors reflected in the water, and the stone buildings of the historic old town, it is an incredibly picturesque city!
In Frigiliana, a town referenced in my last post, its Muslim residents had been expelled by the Catholic Monarchs, seeking to re-take control of the area. Girona has a parallel story of Jewish residents who had lived there for hundreds of years - though they were certainly not the rulers - and were expelled in 1492 by the same Catholic monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand. The Jewish residents were forced to flee (or convert to Christianity), while their quarter of the city was left largely intact and survives to this day. It is a very atmospheric area with rather dark, mysterious, narrow, twisting streets, where one could easily lose one's way.
At the Jewish museum, we learned a little bit about life all those years ago, saw the ritual bath area, the mikva, as well as stone headstones with moving and personal inscriptions. Ironically, it was due to the scientific work of Jewish map and instrument makers, that the expedition of Columbus was successful - in the same year as the Jews' expulsion. Makes me think of another under-recognized minority mathematician, five centuries later, Katherine Johnson, an American black female, whose calculations ensured the success of NASA's astronauts on their voyages to the moon.
The wall enclosing the old town dates to medieval times. A walkway along the top gave great views over the city and off to the foothills of the Pyrenees. We watched the sun go down from that vantage point one evening.
Looking out from the medieval wall, over the rooftops. I deliberately made sure to not include modern life in the photo - and it was easy.
We spent almost all of our time in the old town, an easy walk across the river from our Airbnb, on our choice of 11 bridges! There was more to see than we could manage in 4 days with the Webb slow-travel style, trying to pace ourselves and stay healthy!
My favorite bridge in Girona.
One day we visited the Archaeology Museum - Bruce's choice - now housed in a hauntingly large former Benedictine Monastery, dating to the 12th century, with a lovely cloister.
Another day I was able to lure Bruce into an art museum - only because it was beginning to rain! Despite the preponderance of religious art, which drives Bruce screaming out into the rain, there were some very unique and beguiling pieces, like this unusually happy-looking madonna.
I was thrilled to see the incredible display of medieval "capitals", those intricate stone carvings of people and weird animals, close enough to touch and see clearly! Usually they are outside, high up on buildings, where I can't see - or photograph - them. Here there were scores of rescued capitals, and I could ponder their stories to my heart's content.
Another sweet surprise was a presentation on the history of Spanish tile work, which I love. This "artisan tile" had special meaning for me. By the time I found these, my own fiddler had retreated to our apartment across the river!
Finally, the scallop shells which are the symbol of the Camino de Santiago, on the cape of this religious figure drew my attention. It turns out that Sant Roc in Spanish/St. Roch in French was a segue to our next destination. He is a native and patron saint of Montpellier, France, and of wandering pilgrims such as ourselves, AND the saint who protects one from plagues! With coronavirus never far from our thoughts, this discovery seemed inspired.
Saint Roch
So I got my dose of art and inspiration at the Girona Art Musuem on the day before we left this intriguing and beautiful city! I also got a haircut and had a surprisingly good chat with the beautician, considering our mutual clumsiness with each other's language.
And then it was time to leave Girona and continue on our way to France, 150 miles north to the city of Montpellier. Not everything in Girona was serious. I'll leave you with a fun piece of street art - and a blessing for these worrisome times.
God Bless You (in Catalan language)
See you next time in Montpellier, France!
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