Cruising

Cruising                     February 6, 2019

Well, we're back on line after a two week interlude.  Our last blog post left off as Bruce and I were about to board Holland-America's ship, Volendam, for our first experience of big ship cruising.  Bruce had wanted to traverse the Panama Canal, and this seemed like the best way.   Unbeknownst to me, there was a charge for internet on board the ship.  At $25/day, it  wasn't even in the realm of possibility for the frugal Webbs!   So, as frustrating as it was, we went cold turkey for 2 weeks, except when we went ashore and found cafes with free internet (along with a beer :).

That was my major complaint - and really, it was a rather small issue compared to the amazing experience that we had!  The Volendam is a floating resort with all manner of ways to bring you pleasure.   Being cruise ship newbies, we were pretty agog at the decadence and high quality of most every aspect of on-board life.   We struggled with that at first but got embarrassingly accustomed to being waited upon, hand and foot.  Our cabin steward, Sahal, an incredibly hard-working Indonesian man, put in 10-12 hours a day, making beds, cleaning toilets, vacuuming, making towel animals and distributing small chocolate squares to each of his 29 rooms daily!  He was one of 500 workers at all levels of employment, from laundry workers to cooks to the musicians and bar keepers and navigation experts.  Quite an international community.  Very few of the workers were American, at any position.

                         Towel monkey, one of my fav's!

Cruise ships are known for their food. It was abundant, as well as beautifully prepared and presented.  Normally, we ate in the lovely self-serve cafe with an assortment of international offerings.  I soon discovered the smoked salmon for breakfast and indulged myself often.  The upscale, more formal "Dining Room" was absolutely elegant, an art deco setting with a bevy of waiters.  It wouldn't have surprised us to see Frank Sinatra come strolling through.  Here they straddle the line of old world tradition with several "gala" nights in which guests may dress formally - with most nights being "smart casual".  Even on a gala night, we were not turned away, me in my $5 Goodwill dress and Bruce with his clip-on bow tie!  No shorts allowed, though.

                       Gala night in the Dining Room :)

The constant temptation to overeat was a bit of a challenge.  Many guests were already overweight when they boarded.  We had read that the average guest gains 10 pounds on a two-week cruise!   However, Holland-America thinks of everything, with an onboard gym and a wonderful promenade deck for walking, as well as two swimming pools.  Three times around the deck equaled a mile.  For a fee, there were all manner of other opportunities for physical betterment, such as acupuncture and assessments of one's posture/feet and classes for pilates & yoga, as well as spa treatments.  I did take a couple of dips in the pools, but we stuck mostly to walking the promenade in the fresh air, looking out to sea.

                        the promenade - it was on our deck!

                                         the outdoor pool

Bruce had chosen the Holland-America line because it had a reputation of catering to an older crowd.  He wanted to be assured that he wouldn't be kept awake with karaoke and all-night parties.  Not to worry!  We were surprised at just how old the population was!  Virtually everyone was retired, and it was not unusual to see people using canes or even pushing walkers, with a small handful in wheelchairs.  I couldn't help but think of a floating Marigold Hotel.  We were impressed by how long the travel bug and world curiosity lasts.   This is certainly a way to keep going, far into one's dotage!  We learned that there is a medical doctor on board.  At least one passenger that we know of used the medical services in an emergency situation with painful kidney stones.  He was very pleased with the care he received.   The staff and crew, all in their 20's and 30's, were extremely cheerful and patient with this cohort of guests!


One of the cruise delights was meeting people from all over the world.  The passenger list numbered more than 1300 from 43 nations, albeit mostly the USA and Canada.  On our first night we met a couple from Aberdeen, Scotland, and on our last morning, we ate breakfast with a couple from Glen William, South Africa.  However, before the ship even left port, we encountered John and Barbara, retired from teaching university and elementary art in Gainesville, Florida, and found that we had a lot in common.  They became our ship buddies, and we enjoyed sharing many meals with them.

                   John and Barbara, our new shipboard friends.  

The entertainment was outstanding!  I hadn't thought much about it before embarking but we soon fell into a routine of attending the nightly live shows, being introduced to a variety of national quality performers whom we had never heard of.  Among them was John Wing, a comedian who was actually funny (and originally from Canada and an altar boy as a child :); Akos Laki, an incredible jazz sax player from Yugoslavia, now living in Rotterdam; Patrick Murray, a hugely talented ventriloquist who gives voice to Mathilda with a Jamaican accent (!); and Hyperion Knight, an impressive and personable piano virtuoso.  You can google any of these entertainers and be wowed!

In addition, there were all manner of diversions throughout the day.  No such thing as being bored at sea!  I learned about making Asian dumplings and tacos through cooking demonstrations put on by America's Test Kitchen, which is an organization featured on PBS stations.   Even though I've been cooking for decades, Maria, the young Latina chef, had helpful tips. 

 Maria, the America's Test Kitchen talented chef who kept up a fun patter while dicing and sauteing.

In fact, there were so many distractions among the interesting options, everything from casual live classical or jazz music in plush bars to movies and lectures on the places where we'd be stopping that, toward the end, I had to make myself sit down on a deck chair and stare at the sea for a while.  That was what I had been looking forward to while still at home in Gorham.  

Bruce's favorite part of the experience, apart from his goal of passing through the Panama Canal (more on that in another post), was just being at sea with no duties.  He was reminded, of course, of his time in the US Navy, with mid-night watches and perpetual exhaustion.  By contrast, this was so relaxing.  

We found this "secret" deck on the aft end which few other guests ever discovered.

Overall, it was a fascinating experience.  Cruise ships are a world unto themselves with behind-the-scenes activities that we had only brief glimpses into.  Being curious, we took in every coffee chat with the head of food & beverages or introduction to the singers & dancers or Q&A with the captain.  Still, we can only imagine what it's like to live and work aboard a closed community for months at a time.  We're glad that we did it - as passengers!  It fulfilled its purpose of checking off a bucket list item for Bruce.  But, it really isn't our style of travel.  The up-selling was particularly annoying to Bruce.  The over-the-top amenities were sweet for a while but not something that we need in our travels.  I doubt that we'll take another cruise - at least not for a while :).  

Next two posts will describe the transit through the Panama Canal and our excursions ashore.  

On the Road, Again - and In the Air & On the Sea

On the Road Again - and Air &Sea            January 17, 2019

This is a test:  a test primarily to see if this inept techie could get a photo from her phone onto this blog.  Should have tried it sooner but here we are in Ft. Lauderdale and finally have time for such things!   Yay!!  I did it - with in-family tech support, of course!

Could be a test, too, to see if we'd like spending more time here in the winter.  The photo gives a hint as to Bruce's conclusion.  Our first morning outside Maine was spent on the small patio of our Airbnb, sipping coffee next to a canal, temp around 70, sun shining, lush vegetation all around, and a fascinating hostess!

Rosemary had picked us up at the airport yesterday - she's an Uber driver, as well as running an Airbnb.  I immediately noted her Scottish accent - and the fact that she looked about our age!  She & her British engineer husband lived in Brussels for many years, then in Plymouth, Mass., now here.  In front of their canal-side home is moored a big motorboat, which also serves as Airbnb accommodation.  Rosemary manages all of this in a gentle, unhurried way, with the help of her trusty Roomba!

We spent today roaming around Ft. Lauderdale on foot, as is our habit.  The Riverwalk is gorgeous.  It wends its way alongside the New River, through the historic part of the city and past lots of new high-rise construction.  Hamilton is just finishing a run at the beautiful theater.  Massive private motor boats ply the waters.  The Florida East Coast Railroad tracks run through the center of town, necessitating the raising and lowering of the train bridge over the river multiple times a day. 

Tomorrow we board Volendam, our Holland-America floating home for 2 weeks.  It will take us down through the Caribbean Sea, stopping at a small island in the Bahamas, then on to Cartagena, Colombia, through the Panama Canal, then north on the Pacific side to Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala, & Mexico, arriving eventually in San Diego.  The stops last for a matter of hours only, so just a quick taste of each place.  Our purpose for the cruise is to experience passage through the canal, a bucket list item for Bruce. 

The cruise will be followed by a flight from Tijuana to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, where we'll spend a month.  It's a UNESCO World Heritage city and is located at a fairly high elevation, so it should be a pleasant temperature and interesting place to explore.  We haven't been to Mexico for nearly 50 years, when we were grad students at Arizona State U. 

After that, Guatemala for the month of March.  So, follow along with us for this total Latino winter adventure!

Our Own Safari

Our Own Safari                 March 30, 2018

What comes to mind when you think of Africa?   The iconic image for me is large, exotic wild animals.  I'm really more of a people-person than an animal-person.  Animals penned up in zoos usually make me sad.  I do like house cats and some dogs and sheep in fields and birds flying freely.  A safari was not high on my list of things to do in South Africa, but it seemed that we really should see some of the big guys while we were here.  So, at the suggestion of several friends, we put Addo Elephant National Park on our itinerary.  For Vanessa and Graham, it took no convincing at all, being animal whisperers for all of God's creatures, it seems - except for snakes!  We have that last bit in common, for sure!  

Addo Park had been created back in 1931 for 15 elephants, all that was left of a vibrant population that had been hunted nearly to extinction.  The elephants must be happy now.  The herd has grown to more than 450 elephants, and the initial small piece of land has been enlarged to its current 1100 square miles!  

The village of Addo is inland from the coast where we had been traveling for four days.  The plan was to arrive in the evening, tour the park the next day, and and spend that night there before departing.  We had hoped to stay inside the Park in one of their rondavels, the round cabins built to look like the traditional thatch-roofed huts of indigenous peoples.  Alas, that was not to be.  Instead we found a "backpacker" just outside the park.  These are funky establishments, with access to a communal kitchen for cooking, frequented mostly by frugal young travelers carrying backpacks.  

                            Patio at the Orange Elephant Backpacker

Nowadays, they often offer ensuite rooms as an alternative to the dorm rooms.  We were able to get one of those for our second night there.  Despite the slightly less than cushy accommodations, there is a very appealing energy and sociability to a backpacker that we enjoy.  

We stayed in three different backpackers on this trip, and all of them had bonfires which served as gathering spots for the guests.   At the "Orange Elephant" backpacker, the fire was contained in an ingenious metal structure welded together from an old air-conditioning unit.  So African in its conception and resourcefulness :).  That evening we sat around the fire, chatting and eating pizza under an inky black sky studded with stars, thinking "I'm really in Africa!!"

The next morning we were up and out early, in order to be at the gate when the park opened at 7 am.  Exploration of the preserve is done from the safe confines of a vehicle.  Professional tours are available in small vans, but we opted to do our own driving in our rental car.  The next 8 hours were spent touring the bushy parkland, trying to spot animals.  It was a bit like a treasure hunt.  

Roads, some paved, many unpaved, crisscross the southern part of the park, up and down wide open spaces.  We headed for a viewing spot located high on a knoll overlooking a watering hole, got out of the car and took positions standing on a wobbly bench.  It was still early morning.  The sun was bright and already hot on our backs.  Etiquette and common sense require silence.   Birds twittered and flew around us, a large yellow Cape weaver landing beside us momentarily.  

                  Graham and Vanessa look out over the watering hole.

Far below, near the pond, we were thrilled to first notice a couple of elands, a type of antelope, skirting the water.  I would not have even known that name had it not been for a large kindergarten floor puzzle depicting African animals that had been in my Breakwater classroom!    Soon  3-4 zebras were spotted making their way toward the water, followed by more and more, parents and kids, taking their turns on the uneasy footing to get their morning drinks.  Something in me clicked at that moment.  This was one of the most thrilling experiences that I'd had in a long time!  

We watched this snippet of life in the semi-wild for a half hour or so.  Despite the thrill of zebras and elands, we were a bit disappointed at the lack of elephants.  But, the day was young - so we piled back into the car with Vanessa driving and the rest of us peering intently over the landscape.  

Soon we were slowed to a stop as a tightly-packed herd of African buffalo crossed the road in front of the car, their impressive curved horns and hefty bodies holding our rapt attention.  

Warthogs were everywhere, all day.  Their short stout bodies and silly-looking horns gave them a comical appearance - but not one that I'd want to tangle with!  

The majestic kudu, with its impressive curved horns and beautiful body markings, is elegant.

Zebras, too, became easy to spot. 

Eventually we did see elephants, LOTS of elephants!  In one group, we counted over 40!  Finding watering holes was the key.  The big, slow-moving kings of this park clearly held sway over these oases.  They alternated between drinking the water and splashing themselves with mud to cool off.  They jostled and pushed each other.  In the only deep water hole that we encountered, they slipped down the greasy path and swam and played and made love and honked at each other.  After a while, they would lumber off into the bush.  Watching them was mesmerizing. 

Witnessing elephants in the semi-wild, in their own habitat where they are free to roam, was amazing!   In addition to the animals mentioned, we also saw a jackal and several large African tortoises.  By comparison, the tiniest creature that we saw was the dung beetle, though it is not small in the insect world!  The beetles are in heaven here, with lots of dung to lay their eggs in - but often in mortal danger since they cross the road slowly.  

We did not see any lions or rhinos, though they do live in the park.  

By 4 pm, we were pretty tired and returned to the backpacker.  It had been a "once in a lifetime" experience, opening our eyes to what this continent must have looked like a couple of hundred years ago.  Thank goodness that the South African government, with all of its challenges, has chosen to protect and nurture these treasures of the wild.  

Gesondheid or "To Your Health"

                      Gesondheid or "To Your Health"         March 26, 2018

Thanks to the generosity of Graham's aunt and uncle, we had a lovely weekend in Somerset West, in the famous vineyard region.  The Winelands offer another aspect of South African life which we had been eager to explore. 

The four of us - Vanessa, Graham, Bruce, and I - had rented a car to take us on a twelve day adventure on the "Garden Route", which stretches east of Cape Town, along the Indian Ocean, on the bottom of the African continent.  Our visit to Graham's family was our first stop.  

The area is visually impressive, overlooked by a range of blue-gray mountains, the Hottentot-Hollands, that rise up steeply from the plains, not far from the coast, providing perfect conditions for great vineyards.  

                                         Winelands area


After checking in at the family home, we headed out to Stellenbosch, a lovely, leafy university town with a long history of learning and wine-making.  Several people back home in Maine had suggested this as a destination for us.  The architecture alone was worth the visit, as examples of the typical old Cape Dutch style line the streets.  

          Brilliant white Stellenbosch old Cape Dutch building


This is a very white town, both the buildings and the people, with many trendy little shops and restos - just the place for a group of young black kids to raise money with a dance demonstration on the main street.  I loved it!  

We didn't have time for a wine-tasting in Stellenbosch, as it was late by the time we'd had lunch and strolled around.  We headed back to make supper for the family on Saturday evening.   

On Sunday morning, however, we set out for nearby Vergelegen vineyards. The South African wine industry was begun three hundred years ago by the Dutch East India Company to produce wine for the company directors in Malaysia - and had a tough time getting it right until French Hugenots arrived, looking for religious tolerance and bringing with them their wine-making skills!  Now the Winelands are dotted with historic, beautiful old wine estates, most of which offer wine tastings.  We were reminded of Napa Valley.  

Surrounded by fields of grape vines, Vergelegen is one of the oldest vineyards in the country.   After some years of neglect, the estate has been restored to its former glory, with lovely flower & herb gardens, as well as lush green lawns and huge old trees.  The manor house is furnished and open as a museum, showing the elegant, cultured lifestyle of its previous the owners.  Of course, all of this rested on the backs of their slaves, whose story was also told.  The name, country of origin, date of acquisition, and price of every slave were printed on the wall in a moving display.  In more recent times,  a bevy of distinguished people have visited the estate, including Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip,  Nelson Mandela, Bill & Hilary Clinton, Elton John, Desmond Tutu, & Martha Stewart!  That day it was Vanessa Beck and Bruce & Linda Webb!  While I was studying the photos and text describing the history of Vergelegen, along with other white visitors, a very black man, dressed in the white uniform of a staff person, quietly passed by, carrying an armload of fresh linens.  I couldn't help but wonder what has changed in all these years.  

          Vergelegen Vineyards manor house and gardens

It was a sunny warm day, and the estate was lovely.  We strolled the expansive grounds and relaxed on the veranda for an abbreviated tasting of their award-winning wines, keeping an eye on the clock to make sure that we were back home in time for Sunday lunch.  

          Gesondheid, Afrikaans for "to your health"!

Graham's aunt Antoinette puts on a fabulous traditional family Sunday lunch. In South Africa, the brai (barbecue) is a popular choice for a summer meal, and, just like at home, the man of the house, in this case Uncle Simon, was in charge of barbecuing the chicken.  Antoinette's 83 year-old dad, Andre, joined us, which made seven of us for lunch.  

                       Getting ready for the brai on the patio: 
                  (l to r)   Uncle Simon, Bruce, Graham, and Andre  

From the patio table, we could see the ocean in the distance.  Chatting over lunch was a unique opportunity for us to get to know Graham's family and more about South African life.  Later that afternoon, Antoinette took us for a drive to the seaside towns of Strand and Gordon's Bay, which we could see from their home.  

The day was wearing down as we passed the tall hotels and apartments lining the shore.  In the late afternoon sun, families were walking together, groups of young men played a lively game of beach soccer, a few hardy folks swam in the waters of False Bay.  There was definitely a relaxed, beachy vibe with a much more diverse crowd than we'd seen at the vineyards.  At the end of the bay, mountains dropped quite steeply into the sea, and expensive homes dotted the hillside.  

                                               Gordon's Bay

The next morning was Monday.  Antoinette & Simon went off to work.  Vanessa & Graham went to Cape Town for an appointment.  While Bruce & I waited for V & G's return, the family housekeeper arrived.  She had traveled on public transport from a township with her grand-daughter, who is attending pre-school in Somerset West.  Townships are the areas where Blacks were required to live during the time of aparteid - and where they still live, due to economic hardship.  On our way from Cape Town, the highway had passed the township where Thandi lives.  As the second largest township after Soweto, it was not hard to miss.  With upwards of half a million residents, its sprawling clusters of distinctly poor shacks and shabby concrete houses along dirt pathways are such a stark contrast to the upscale housing that we had seen in Cape Town and the winelands.  It is very sad.  I am reminded that it's been barely 30 years since the end of apartheid, however.  Trevor Noah, in his memoir, Born a Crime, shows the power of education and determination to move out of the townships and into a better life.  I'm sure his journey is unique, however.  

Vanessa & Graham returned, and we got on our way for a great adventure that has taken us 1000 miles, round trip, along the coast to Port Elizabeth and inland to Addo and back.  We're not quite finished with our excursion.  It's been an amazing experience, full of dramatic scenery and interesting encounters with local residents.   One highlight was our day spent in an elephant preserve.  More on that in the next post.  

This post has been extraordinarily difficult to get out, due to computer grumpiness, primarily, along with sketchy internet availability.  Here goes!  

Facts of LIfe in Cape Town

Facts of Life in Cape Town          March 15, 2018

                                  Cape Town Airport Welcome!

From the moment we arrived in Cape Town nearly a week ago, water conservation has been on my mind.  Not every moment, but certainly when working in the kitchen or bathroom.  We had heard about the water shortage even before we left home and had wondered if we might be met with "day zero" in which the taps would be turned off totally.  I'm not sure how the population would cope in that situation, but it is a real possibility.  If there's no water left, the government will have no choice.  Fortunately, the citizens of Cape Town have reportedly done an amazing job of reducing their water consumption to 50% of their former use.  Day Zero has been put back for a few months.  However, continued diligence is in order to avoid that possibility.  

Reminders are everywhere.   As we entered the airport in Cape Town, we were greeted by the above sign.  Today we encountered a large public installation at the touristy waterfront, where the World Wildlife Fund was educating the public and encouraging them to be creative in conserving.  Restrooms make hand sanitizer available for use instead of washing with water.  Bottled water can be bought in restaurants but glasses of water are not given out.  Everyone is encouraged to do less laundry; use fewer dishes; to flush less often; to take 2 minute showers; to "catch" shower water and use it on the lawn. Gardeners are "training" plants to need less water, which encourages deeper roots, and does no harm. People who water their yards with gray water make sure to post signs letting their neighbors know that the water is not potable, less they be mistakenly judged for using drinking water for lawns.  On our flight into Cape Town, we could see large swaths of once cultivated land lying dry and sandy.  Young children are aware of the crisis, and now teachers are needing to alleviate anxiety with reassurances that things will improve.  

Hopefully, it will improve, but the infrastructure was put in place to serve a million residents - and now there are 4 million people living here.  All over Africa, drought is an issue.   It's a problem that is not going to be easily solved.  Out of necessity, perhaps Cape Town residents will become models for conservation for the rest of us.  

                  It rained for a short time this evening.  Yay!

We have really lucked out - again - with our Airbnb apartment.  It's a beautiful space, on the ground floor, 3 rooms, all white and sparkly clean, with a tiny private garden.  It's well-appointed with a washing machine for laundry, as well as a dishwasher.  Of course, we rarely use a dishwasher at home and certainly not in a city experiencing severe drought!  Our German doctor landlord has been extremely attentive, stopping by almost daily to check in with us and have a chat.  

   Our eat-in kitchen - AND the security gate and wall just beyond.

The other harsh fact of life in Cape Town is the HIGH degree of security that is necessary - and the complicated system of alarm-setting and un-setting required with every entrance and exit of the house!  We are surrounded by a cement wall topped with sharp spikes, and electrified wires; a locked gate into the property; a locked folding gate into the apartment, as well as a door that locks; plus all manner of sensors!  When we get up in the middle of the night, we can see the sensor in the corner light up.  OMG!  We feel a bit like prisoners ourselves - albeit in a lovely prison :)!  For the first couple of days we were terrified of setting off the wrong alarm that might result in an armed response.  By now, Bruce has sorted out the system, but we are cautious.  A mistake on our part would be embarrassing and might be dangerous.  

              Our livingroom, opening to the small "garden".  
You can't see the collapsed metal gate at the door ...  

    ...but this is what it looks like when it's in place across the door.  

Unfortunately, this degree of security is apparently a necessary reality in Cape Town, given the scary stories that we've heard of break-ins and murders.  What a sad state of affairs - due to the extraordinary income gap between the have's and have-not's in this land, along racial lines, of course, and the high rate of unemployment.  Everyone is hoping that the new president, Mr. Ramaphosa, will be able to improve the economy and help to equalize opportunity. 

"Let there be work, bread, water, & salt for all."    Nelson Mandela

Despite the danger implied by the security systems, we have found that our neighborhood is lovely and safe.  Even downtown seems fine, IF one is cautious and sensible, similar to Guatemala.  Having said that, our very sensible friend Vanessa has warded off two pickpocket attempts, which shook her confidence for a while.   

On a cheerier note, Bruce & I had a lovely experience on Monday morning when we helped Vanessa teach a group of first grade girls about gardening.  Vanessa and hubby Graham are our New Zealand/Chicago friends who are living here temporarily in the land where Graham was born.  They are the reason that we are here!  Vanessa has been volunteering at an urban vegetable farm and had asked if B & I might like to help, too. 

Vanessa & Bruce checking out the worm box.  I had had a much smaller version in my classroom at Breakwater School for a while.   

Once a week a different group of children comes to the garden to learn about composting and insects and worm tea and plants.  This week's group was from an all-girls private primary school - and were fun kids.  They reminded me of my Breakwater students - well-informed; well-traveled; rather empowered - but still little kids who loved letting the goldfish nibble at their fingers and were excited to pull a carrot from the garden and eat it on the spot.  When my group heard that we were from the USA, they brought up the topic of our president, whom they all knew about.  They did not hold back from voicing their negative opinions!  

                                Hoping to attract the gold fish. 

The farm, I have learned, is the remnants of the original farm, begun around 1770, to serve the Dutch East India ships traveling between the Netherlands and Java.  A three hundred year old pear tree still produces fruit on a small plot, now surrounded by suburbia.  
 http://www.ozcf.co.za  (link to Oranjezicht City Farm)

Having described some of the less flattering aspects of Cape Town, I must say that the city is stunningly beautiful, situated as it is between the Atlantic Ocean and the very distinctive, flat topped Table Mountain.   On a clear day, everything seems to stand out in sharp relief.  Other days, a deep fog has obscured the mountain, reminding us of a summer day in Maine. We are waiting for the rare sight of a white cloud covering just the top of the mountain, looking like a tablecloth on the table.  

Bruce walking in our neighborhood, with Table Mountain in the back. 

                     Lion's Head extends from the end of Table Mtn.

Looking toward downtown, from our high neighborhood, with Table Bay in the background.  

One part of the busy waterfront with fog hanging over the mountain.  

As for architecture, the residential area contains a mix of sweet Victorian era bungalows with fancy ironwork, such as we saw in New Zealand, and modern, glassy structures - all climbing the steep incline to the mountain.  At times, the city has reminded us of the hills of Dunedin or Wellington, NZ, or San Francisco.  We've been getting our exercise, traipsing up & down from the seaside city center to our apartment on the hillside.  

                         This house reminded me of a wedding cake.      

The prominent, symmetrical gable is a characteristic of Cape Dutch architecture.  

                     Modern glass and angular design.  Looks pricey!

One of the areas that I was eager to visit was the neighborhood called Bo-Kaap, the historic Cape Malay area.  After our morning of teaching, followed by lunch and a cool beer (it was our only hot day, so far), Vanessa and I joined a walking tour of Bo-Kaap.  Known as the center of the Malay culture, even now,  the original Malays were brought to Cape Town as slaves in the 1600's from Malaysia.  A vibrant Muslim culture continues, clustered around the oldest mosque in the country, plus 10 others.  I would love to be in the area when the calls to prayer are done by all 11 mosques!  Our guide reported that it's quite an experience!  

                       Two of the mosques in Bo-Kaap

One characteristic of Bo-Kaap that draws people are the colorful houses, painted in a rainbow of happy, picturesque hues.  No one knows why, but, since the tradition is about 25 years old, one theory is that it's a reflection of Nelson Mandela's "rainbow nation".  

                                           Bo-Kaap colors

                                     Vanessa & I, being colorful.  

Being in the city, the wildlife that we've seen has been limited to birds - but they are pretty prominent!  

          A flock of blue-headed guinea hens, outside our house. My guide book describes them as "gregarious"!  

 The Egyptian goose is common and is quite a nuisance on the urban farm.  


There's lots more to tell but I'll stop for now and send this post on its way.  This weekend we've been invited to accompany V & G to Graham's aunt & uncle's home in Somerset West, a town located in the wine-growing area, about an hour away.  That will be the start of a road trip along the southern coast.