Belfast Northern Ireland has changed a lot in the 12 years since Bruce and I were here last. We have strong ties to Belfast ever since our family hosted an 11 year old boy, Joe, through the Maine Irish Children's Program (MICP) in the summer of 1986. MICP was an ecumenical effort to contribute to the peace process in this war-torn country by bringing Catholic and Protestant children to Maine for a few weeks and placing them in homes of the opposite faith. Following that summer, Bruce and I both became involved with running the Maine side of the program, resulting in Bruce traveling to Belfast in 1989.
Bruce's first trip here was an eye-opener. It took place during the height of the "troubles", as the 30 year period of bloody violence is so benignly referred to. The city center had been surrounded by barricades in those days. Army tanks and soldiers were everywhere. The Catholic and Protestant sides of town were clearly divided, and it was dangerous to trespass on the side that you didn't belong to.
After many years of work towards peace, the Easter Accords were worked out in 1998, led by our own Sen. George Mitchell. Despite the agreements, when I visited Ireland on vacation with Bruce two years later, in July, 2000 - marching season - the Protestant Orange Order was still provocatively parading through Catholic neighborhoods, waving their flags of hatred. Catholics were still burning piles of tires in the streets in response. We were steered clear of certain towns. Belfast was a "work in process".
Fast forward to 2012. Belfast is now a bustling city of glassy, modern buildings tucked among the grand Victorian stone matriarchs. There is a buzz about the new Titanic Museum, erected in time for the 100th anniversary of the construction of the ship here in Belfast. It was impossible to get into the museum this weekend as the tickets were sold out. Tourists are filling up the city, not just from England and Germany and other parts of Europe, but more significantly, from the Republic of Ireland, as well. Nary a soldier or piece of barbed wire is to be seen.
Titanic Museum, looking like both a ship and an iceberg!
Belfast street scene
It is exhilarating to see the progress that has been made and to feel that the city is pretty normal now. We stayed with friends, John and Jane Herron, whom we had met through work in the reconciliation effort. During our visit this week, we went to the symphony together, ate at a nice restaurant, attended their church, shared a meal with their friends, toured City Hall - all very ordinary activities - now. John, was taken aback by the relaxed approach to security at City Hall. But such is the current atmosphere of civility.
The foyer of Belfast's beautiful and ornate city hall
Lest we think that all is rosy, however, our young tour guide, on a bus tour of the city, shared his opinion that there is a great deal of work yet to be done. He noted that the "peace wall" separating the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods remains standing and, in fact, has been added to, as recently as two years ago. Most children still attend segregated schools, according to him. The military murals on outside walls are looking fresh - perhaps because people like us pay money to tour the area and are very curious about these remnants of the troubles. Real peace and respect between the two sides is still a work in progress. And, after such a long period of strife, it seems reasonable that it will take a long time to heal the wounds completely.
One of the highlights of our short stay in Belfast was meeting with Joe, now a 37 year old man. We had been in touch on facebook so had caught up on his life. But it was wonderful to share time with him in person and to see the same personable 11 year old peeking through those older eyes. He lives in the neighborhood where he grew up, near his siblings and extended family, and loves the Belfast that he has always known. And we thought it was great city, too!
Bruce, Joe, and Linda
Bruce's first trip here was an eye-opener. It took place during the height of the "troubles", as the 30 year period of bloody violence is so benignly referred to. The city center had been surrounded by barricades in those days. Army tanks and soldiers were everywhere. The Catholic and Protestant sides of town were clearly divided, and it was dangerous to trespass on the side that you didn't belong to.
After many years of work towards peace, the Easter Accords were worked out in 1998, led by our own Sen. George Mitchell. Despite the agreements, when I visited Ireland on vacation with Bruce two years later, in July, 2000 - marching season - the Protestant Orange Order was still provocatively parading through Catholic neighborhoods, waving their flags of hatred. Catholics were still burning piles of tires in the streets in response. We were steered clear of certain towns. Belfast was a "work in process".
Fast forward to 2012. Belfast is now a bustling city of glassy, modern buildings tucked among the grand Victorian stone matriarchs. There is a buzz about the new Titanic Museum, erected in time for the 100th anniversary of the construction of the ship here in Belfast. It was impossible to get into the museum this weekend as the tickets were sold out. Tourists are filling up the city, not just from England and Germany and other parts of Europe, but more significantly, from the Republic of Ireland, as well. Nary a soldier or piece of barbed wire is to be seen.
It is exhilarating to see the progress that has been made and to feel that the city is pretty normal now. We stayed with friends, John and Jane Herron, whom we had met through work in the reconciliation effort. During our visit this week, we went to the symphony together, ate at a nice restaurant, attended their church, shared a meal with their friends, toured City Hall - all very ordinary activities - now. John, was taken aback by the relaxed approach to security at City Hall. But such is the current atmosphere of civility.
Lest we think that all is rosy, however, our young tour guide, on a bus tour of the city, shared his opinion that there is a great deal of work yet to be done. He noted that the "peace wall" separating the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods remains standing and, in fact, has been added to, as recently as two years ago. Most children still attend segregated schools, according to him. The military murals on outside walls are looking fresh - perhaps because people like us pay money to tour the area and are very curious about these remnants of the troubles. Real peace and respect between the two sides is still a work in progress. And, after such a long period of strife, it seems reasonable that it will take a long time to heal the wounds completely.
One of the highlights of our short stay in Belfast was meeting with Joe, now a 37 year old man. We had been in touch on facebook so had caught up on his life. But it was wonderful to share time with him in person and to see the same personable 11 year old peeking through those older eyes. He lives in the neighborhood where he grew up, near his siblings and extended family, and loves the Belfast that he has always known. And we thought it was great city, too!
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