Being in Scotland we had to try the whisky – or Scotch as we
would say. There are a number of
distilleries around, but they are often small and remote or not well
advertised. Linda and I decided to
visit the nearby Talisker distillery which is the only Scotch producer on the
Isle of Skye. Not being a whisky
aficionado, I really don’t know one brand from another so it was time to learn
more.
On a cool, cloudy, windy day (aren’t they all) we set off in
our silver Benz to learn more about the process of making whisky and see some
countryside. Talisker is located in the
small town of Carbost on the western
side of Skye – about 20 miles from our cottage in Uig. We arrived at the neat whitewashed compound
about 12:30 and went upstairs to the visitors center which was warm and cozy
but a bit crowded with people. We were
able to get tickets to the 1:30 tour and were offered a “wee dram” of the
Talisker 10 year old whisky – it was love at first sip. I have little experience with Scotch but
this was a very nice drink – smooth, mellow, with a smoky deep flavor. We sipped our dram while reading the posters
about the history of the distillery and the process of making whisky. Promptly at 1:30, we began our tour of the
small production area, smelling the yeast fermenting the barley and watching
the still man mix the various portions for the final product. We were intrigued by the explanation of how
each distillery has a slightly different process and different water source, which gives each brand a different and distinctive character or flavor. The tour ended in
the gift shop where we bought a small bottle of the 10 year old Scotch to enjoy
in the cottage. We will now look for Talisker
when we get home to Maine but not sure if we will be able to afford it.
Our wee dram of Talisker
There are constant reminders here in Scotland of the toll of
war. The history of this area is
marked with gory tales of great upheaval and conflict among the various
tribes, clans, and kings – think Braveheart and Rob Roy. Reminders of these conflicts are seen in the
many castles on display throughout Scotland, as well as tales of the great –
and not so great - conflicts between the clans who fought each other and
England over religion, land and wealth.
Rob Roy's grave
Of more recent vintage, we are reminded of the terrible toll
of 20th century wars in Scotland.
It seems that every small town square and church yard has a monument
with the names of its dead during “the Great War” and World War
II. It is sobering to see a monument in a small town engraved
with 60 names and realize that this was an entire generation of
young men. It is understandable that
the section of names of men killed in World War II is so small, as there were
so few men alive at that point.
Weather is a topic of constant conversation here on Skye
and, indeed, the entire country. We
were prepared for colder weather when we arrived from India, having packed
jackets and extra clothing in anticipation of lower temps than in Asia and India. We felt “at home” with temps in the 40’s and
50’s, but the wind was something else altogether. I bought a nice wool sweater at a local
thrift shop and Linda acquired some gloves, socks and a hat. These were sufficient for Edinburgh but the trip northwest
to Iona and Skye tested our love of cool weather. We encountered snow during our first night out,
and Dan and I retreated to a cozy pub for a Guinness by the coal fire. Thankfully, the hotel was well heated, and
the beds had large duvets which were appreciated.
View from our guest house the first morning outside of Edinburgh
The weather here is constantly changing with intermittent sun,
snow, hail, rain, and clouds - but it’s never warm. This changing weather gives us some glorious
sun sets, and the light is ever changing which makes for strikingly beautiful
pictures. We are enjoying the weather
and have seen remarkably little rain thus far, but there are moments when we
long for our woodstove in Maine.
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