It's a beautiful sunny Saturday morning in Chiang Mai. The sun is streaming in the open windows. (Love it: real outside fresh air) From out little aerie on the third floor, we can hear the growly motors of the scooters and cars outside, as well as the faint voices of people setting up stalls along the street for selling stuff (mostly flea market type items). Bruce and I are planning our day: an exploratory walk to a large market that B describes as a "warren of stalls selling absolutely everything". He went there on Thursday with the fourth graders on a field trip. I'll try to do a more descriptive post when I've seen it myself. Then we'll join our new and oh so supportive friend, Barb, for an outing in the late afternoon.
I have a post almost ready describing our new life in Chiang Mai, so stay tuned - and enjoy your own weekend, wherever you are!
Friday, January 20, 2012
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Bangkok
This first week in Thailand has flown by. It is SUCH a new and different culture for us! I am grateful for the limited knowledge of Thai culture that I do have, thanks to studying this fascinating nation several times with Deb Smith and the kindergarteners at Breakwater.
As I write this in our hotel room (the Lamphu Tree House Hotel), located beside a quiet old canal, it is early evening and the glass doors are wide open to the tiny balcony outside our room on the 4th floor. The air is still fairly hot. Our swimsuits are drying on a hangar after our dip in the small hotel pool to cool off from our long walk today. Even though we are in a city of millions, there are a few trees in this old section of the city and I can hear exotic-sounding birds squawking and chirping. As I look out from the balcony, I see corrogated tin rooftops on one- or two-story homes/businesses nearby. Beyond them are old apartment buildings and in the far distance some high rise buildings and golden temple spires.
Leading away from the canal is a small path, lined with a dozen or so birdcages. I can see a spirit house in the corner of someone's yard. It is a tiny temple replica, said to calm the spirit of the land and assure blessings. The home owner/business owner brings food and flowers for the spirit each day and says a small prayer. There is actually a spirit house in the corner of our hotel garden.
Every morning we hear a loudspeaker from the nearby boys' school, located in an extensive temple complex. There is some singing, which we imagine to be the national anthem, as well as long periods of announcements. We marvel at the students' ability to sit cross-legged on the outdoor pavement for such a long time.
During the past few days, we have had the wonderful good fortune to spend time with New Zealand friends, Vicki and Simon, as well as a Portland friend, Arline! Vicki and Simon are finishing a 20 month world odyssey, and, needless to say, are intrepid travelers with a spiritual approach to the wonders of life. They have inspired us in our own adventures.
The Webb's and Vicky and Simon at the Jim Thompson house in Bangkok. Jim Thompson was an American who invigorated the marketing and sale of Thai silk and high quality crafts. His house is a beautiful traditional Thai house, situated on a canal.
Arline is about to embark on a 10 day biking trip in the northeast of Thailand with a Breakwater family, Dtaw Tiparos, Katie Murray and their two sons, Tahn & Cody. We are so impressed with the determination of this woman, who is not young and has not done any previous biking - though she has been training on a stationary bike for several months. Go, Arline!!
After our first five days in Thailand, here are some initial impressions:
* We've never seen such devotion & affection for a king! (Not that we've spent much time in monarchies!) Over-sized posters dominating street intersections, gigantic gold-framed photos for sale along the street, small photos displayed in restaurants and stores. King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit are everywhere! (Incidentally, the kinders once sent birthday greetings to the King.)
* Monks with shaved heads and eyebrows, dressed only in brilliant orange robes and sandals, are commonly seen. Yesterday, we encountered a single file line of about 30 monks of all ages (only male) returning from their morning walk to collect alms. They each carried a simple metal bowl. Some of the bowls contained plastic bags of food stuff that had been donated by the people - in appreciation for the spiritual work of the monks.
* The temples are numerous and almost beyond description in their ornateness! Gold leaf covering massive spires. Detailed, intricate designs made with lots of small mirrors and ceramic flowers. Each temple seems to be part of a complex of buildings which are walled off from the bustle of the streets.
* There is such a gentle and respectful approach to the customer, manifested in soft-spoken greetings and slight bowing of the head.
* At the same time, there is a widespread and intense sales pitch directed at tourists by street folks who hope to sell a ride in a tuk-tuk (a small, open, 3-wheeled, motorized, FAST vehicle) to a tourist site, along with a visit to a tailor or jewelry shop. These guys can seem so earnest and sincere, totally taking in those of us who are too trusting. Having said that, SOME of them really are reasonably honest. As you may be able to tell, we have had experience in this realm!
Tuk-tuk, ubiquitous form of public transport
* Street food is being cooked everywhere you glance! We have stayed totally away from street food but we may have to soften that stance. At Vicki's suggestion, we did have a Thai pancake which is a crepe filled with bananas, cooked right in front of you on a hot griddle. Yummy. Vicki also advises not eating any meat from these stands and only food that you witness being cooked.
Bruce and Vicki ordering an ice coffee from a street vendor
* Water transport is available all through the city, on canals, as well as the historical main artery, the Chao Phraya River (River of Kings). We took a long boat to get to the Jim Thompson House. The boat was powered by a big engine and roared past canal-front houses with leafy trees overhanging, at points. Lovely.
Canal boat offering passenger service
* Mornings are cool as we eat breakfast outdoors beside the pool. Fairly soon, however, the temperature climbs and it's quite hot, but not unbearably so. We wouldn't think of complaining, in any case, given the reports of snow and freezing rain back home!
* Other parts of the city are exciting centers of commerce with fancy steel and glass high rise buildings, expensive hotels and restaurants, and beautiful parks (complete with 4 foot-long lizards!). Vicki and Simon's friends are working to open the first Holiday Inn Express in Southeast Asia. Apparently, this is where the action is now! Lonely Planet refers to Bangkok as a sexy broad!
Glitzy apartment lobby in Bangkok
So, from sexy Bangkok, ta ta for now. Tonight we take an overnight train to Chiang Mai in northeast Thailand, where we'll be volunteering in an international school with Dori and Dan's friends, Barb and Paul.
As I write this in our hotel room (the Lamphu Tree House Hotel), located beside a quiet old canal, it is early evening and the glass doors are wide open to the tiny balcony outside our room on the 4th floor. The air is still fairly hot. Our swimsuits are drying on a hangar after our dip in the small hotel pool to cool off from our long walk today. Even though we are in a city of millions, there are a few trees in this old section of the city and I can hear exotic-sounding birds squawking and chirping. As I look out from the balcony, I see corrogated tin rooftops on one- or two-story homes/businesses nearby. Beyond them are old apartment buildings and in the far distance some high rise buildings and golden temple spires.
Leading away from the canal is a small path, lined with a dozen or so birdcages. I can see a spirit house in the corner of someone's yard. It is a tiny temple replica, said to calm the spirit of the land and assure blessings. The home owner/business owner brings food and flowers for the spirit each day and says a small prayer. There is actually a spirit house in the corner of our hotel garden.
Every morning we hear a loudspeaker from the nearby boys' school, located in an extensive temple complex. There is some singing, which we imagine to be the national anthem, as well as long periods of announcements. We marvel at the students' ability to sit cross-legged on the outdoor pavement for such a long time.
During the past few days, we have had the wonderful good fortune to spend time with New Zealand friends, Vicki and Simon, as well as a Portland friend, Arline! Vicki and Simon are finishing a 20 month world odyssey, and, needless to say, are intrepid travelers with a spiritual approach to the wonders of life. They have inspired us in our own adventures.
Arline is about to embark on a 10 day biking trip in the northeast of Thailand with a Breakwater family, Dtaw Tiparos, Katie Murray and their two sons, Tahn & Cody. We are so impressed with the determination of this woman, who is not young and has not done any previous biking - though she has been training on a stationary bike for several months. Go, Arline!!
After our first five days in Thailand, here are some initial impressions:
* We've never seen such devotion & affection for a king! (Not that we've spent much time in monarchies!) Over-sized posters dominating street intersections, gigantic gold-framed photos for sale along the street, small photos displayed in restaurants and stores. King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit are everywhere! (Incidentally, the kinders once sent birthday greetings to the King.)
* Monks with shaved heads and eyebrows, dressed only in brilliant orange robes and sandals, are commonly seen. Yesterday, we encountered a single file line of about 30 monks of all ages (only male) returning from their morning walk to collect alms. They each carried a simple metal bowl. Some of the bowls contained plastic bags of food stuff that had been donated by the people - in appreciation for the spiritual work of the monks.
* The temples are numerous and almost beyond description in their ornateness! Gold leaf covering massive spires. Detailed, intricate designs made with lots of small mirrors and ceramic flowers. Each temple seems to be part of a complex of buildings which are walled off from the bustle of the streets.
* There is such a gentle and respectful approach to the customer, manifested in soft-spoken greetings and slight bowing of the head.
* At the same time, there is a widespread and intense sales pitch directed at tourists by street folks who hope to sell a ride in a tuk-tuk (a small, open, 3-wheeled, motorized, FAST vehicle) to a tourist site, along with a visit to a tailor or jewelry shop. These guys can seem so earnest and sincere, totally taking in those of us who are too trusting. Having said that, SOME of them really are reasonably honest. As you may be able to tell, we have had experience in this realm!
* Street food is being cooked everywhere you glance! We have stayed totally away from street food but we may have to soften that stance. At Vicki's suggestion, we did have a Thai pancake which is a crepe filled with bananas, cooked right in front of you on a hot griddle. Yummy. Vicki also advises not eating any meat from these stands and only food that you witness being cooked.
* Water transport is available all through the city, on canals, as well as the historical main artery, the Chao Phraya River (River of Kings). We took a long boat to get to the Jim Thompson House. The boat was powered by a big engine and roared past canal-front houses with leafy trees overhanging, at points. Lovely.
* Mornings are cool as we eat breakfast outdoors beside the pool. Fairly soon, however, the temperature climbs and it's quite hot, but not unbearably so. We wouldn't think of complaining, in any case, given the reports of snow and freezing rain back home!
* Other parts of the city are exciting centers of commerce with fancy steel and glass high rise buildings, expensive hotels and restaurants, and beautiful parks (complete with 4 foot-long lizards!). Vicki and Simon's friends are working to open the first Holiday Inn Express in Southeast Asia. Apparently, this is where the action is now! Lonely Planet refers to Bangkok as a sexy broad!
So, from sexy Bangkok, ta ta for now. Tonight we take an overnight train to Chiang Mai in northeast Thailand, where we'll be volunteering in an international school with Dori and Dan's friends, Barb and Paul.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Land of Smiles!
Landed in Bangkok a couple of hours ago, 24 hours after we boarded the plane in New York. It's mid-evening here and the temp is about 84 degrees. Our taxi driver from the airport didn't seem to know just where our hotel was located and tried to drop us off prematurely several times. The first was on a narrow street teeming with white tourists who were eating outdoors at tables that were nearly clipped by passing cars. Other tourists were stretched out on lounge chairs lined up along the street while their feet were massaged! Lonely Planet called the area "a tourist ghetto".
Since we wouldn't get out of the taxi in a place that clearly wasn't our hotel, the increasingly frustrated driver was forced to stop and ask directions a couple of times. Good thing we stuck to the back seat, as the final destination was quite a few blocks from the "ghetto". He finally did convince me that our hotel was right around a corner. We paid him off and dragged our stuff down a slightly dodgy-looking alley and were delighted to spot our hotel nearby. Along the way a cute little toddler grabbed my suitcase handle and insisted on accompanying me. Inside the hotel lobby, we were greeted by gentle, smiling hosts and glasses of roselle tea. All is well, and a fresh bed awaits.
The pool next to the lobby in our hotel
Since we wouldn't get out of the taxi in a place that clearly wasn't our hotel, the increasingly frustrated driver was forced to stop and ask directions a couple of times. Good thing we stuck to the back seat, as the final destination was quite a few blocks from the "ghetto". He finally did convince me that our hotel was right around a corner. We paid him off and dragged our stuff down a slightly dodgy-looking alley and were delighted to spot our hotel nearby. Along the way a cute little toddler grabbed my suitcase handle and insisted on accompanying me. Inside the hotel lobby, we were greeted by gentle, smiling hosts and glasses of roselle tea. All is well, and a fresh bed awaits.
Friday, January 6, 2012
On the Road Again...
On the road again....spending the evening in a Best Western hotel at JFK airport in NYC, poised for an early morning flight west in order to end up in the Far East!. After spending a wonderful fall in Guatemala, followed by two delightful holiday weeks in Maine, we're off now to explore a part of the world that is new to us - and, oh, so exotic.
In a hotel at JFK Airport in NYC, ironing, watching tv, chilling, getting ready for our next adventure.
Our tentative itinerary for the next 8 months goes something like this:
January and February: THAILAND (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kon Khaen, northeast Thailand)
March: LAOS & INDIA
April: SCOTLAND (Isles of Skye and Iona)
May/June: BELGIUM
July & August: ??? (maybe ENGLAND, maybe FRANCE & SPAIN
Mid to late August: MAINE!
We expect to be challenged by our lack of ability to either read or speak the local languages in Asia. But we also expect that there will be enough English spoken to get us through, coupled with our growing ability to mimic and mime!
It's a privilege to be doing this, and we appreciate the fact that we are lucky devils!
Our tentative itinerary for the next 8 months goes something like this:
January and February: THAILAND (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kon Khaen, northeast Thailand)
March: LAOS & INDIA
April: SCOTLAND (Isles of Skye and Iona)
May/June: BELGIUM
July & August: ??? (maybe ENGLAND, maybe FRANCE & SPAIN
Mid to late August: MAINE!
We expect to be challenged by our lack of ability to either read or speak the local languages in Asia. But we also expect that there will be enough English spoken to get us through, coupled with our growing ability to mimic and mime!
It's a privilege to be doing this, and we appreciate the fact that we are lucky devils!
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Ending, Interlude, and briefly Home Again
We departed Guatemala on December 7, on Spirit Air, winging our way northeast to Ft. Lauderdale on "the umbilical cord of privilege" that allowed us to leave those difficult conditions whenever we wanted, simply because of the fortunate circumstance of our American birth. We left behind a little part of ourselves - and los ninos, to soldier on without us, scraping their way through a tough life in a very tough neighborhood in a nation filled with danger. And they are much luckier than the kids who live all around them - because someone in their family, probably their mom, cared enough about them to get them into Safe Passage. In Safe Passage, they have access to lots of good stuff, like 4 meals a day, health care, tooth-brushing, a safe place to play and learn, a steady flow of first world volunteer helpers, as well as local teachers, who try to teach them right from wrong, English, academic skills, and that there's a world out there that they can join - with their heads held high. How many will escape the centrifugal force of the dump and the drugs and the violence and hopelessness and mistrust that conspire to hold them in its grip? Will Hanley's love be strong enough to find its way through all of us to all of them - to support them in staying focused on their dreams? Please keep them in your prayers.
Our last evening in Antigua, Guatemala - with Andrea
We arrived back in Ft. Lauderdale to the comparative luxury of the Fairfield Inn. Our lovely room was outfitted with a flat screen tv, a toilet where we could deposit toilet tissue, HOT water in the faucets, water that we could drink straight from the tap, a WARM bed with no lumps or wayward springs poking up, a computer in the lobby without sticky keys and in English, sun streaming through the window next morning. Ahh!
Our first meal was my long-awaited salad (with blackened chicken) and a glass of Pinot and for Bruce, a fajita and a Guinness beer. The setting was a large, bright, noisy sports bar, ringed with many tv's on the walls. Very American and a bit of a culture shock. (You don't have much choice of venue when you are at the mercy of the hotel van for transportation.) It was a stark contrast to our dinner the previous evening in Antiqua, spent with our friend Andrea in the quiet, beautiful courtyard of a 17th century home-turned restaurant.
In the Miami area, we got a taste of the free-wheeling lifestyle and colorful art deco area of South Beach. As we ate lunch at a sidewalk cafe, we saw a parade of ladies in skin-tight jeans and high-rise heels, a German-speaking Santa in sandals, young couples in shorts and flip-flops, wobbly old folks, skateboarders, motor-scooters, a convertible overflowing with sexy young women, tour busses with open sides, bicyclists - they were all there, except for people in suits! South Beach is definitely a place for consumption and fun!
Art deco in South Beach, Miami
Seeing and being seen in South Beach
Since we were in the neighborhood, we made a slight detour to Grand Cayman and spent 8 days on that beautiful island with friends Sharon, Richard, and Ryan, and then Lem and Marcia, friends met during our last big adventure 6 years ago. They shared their homes and time with us, treating us to such elegant generosity and rekindling our friendship. I am happy to report that the water is still as turquoise and the sand as warm and smooth as it was before! The island is looking better than ever, with nary a sign of terrible Hurricane Ivan now. Thanks to these friends, we enjoyed a decadent time of total relaxation and indulgence. One of my favorite experiences (aside from the beach at Rum Point) was attending Ryan's Christmas concert, where we heard bits of the Christmas story read in all manner of English accents from around the world and listened to songs that I'd heard on the BBC Christmas Eve service from London, which is a mainstay at home on the morning of the 24th.
Rum Point in Grand Cayman, the place to chill
Eventually we made our way north to Maine, where the weather is considerably colder but the welcome was as warm as could be. We are spending the holidays at the home of Jane Andrews and Don Bouchard, for which we are very grateful. We've seen Matt and Izik, who were home from Chicago for 3 days, and Sam, at whose home we spent a delightful Christmas morning. It's been fun reconnecting with the rest of our family and a few friends. Unfortunately, Bruce brought home a mild case of pneumonia from Guatemala, which is definitely slowing us down. We're trying to get him rested and cured before we head out again on January 6 for Thailand.
Sam on Christmas morning, 2011
The first leg of our year-long adventure has opened our eyes to another culture, introduced us to some wonderful people, allowed us to give a little of ourselves to a few kids in need, humbled us as we tried to learn another language, and left us with amazing memories. In another week, we will be heading out on another adventure that will, undoubtedly prove as interesting and exciting as the last.
We arrived back in Ft. Lauderdale to the comparative luxury of the Fairfield Inn. Our lovely room was outfitted with a flat screen tv, a toilet where we could deposit toilet tissue, HOT water in the faucets, water that we could drink straight from the tap, a WARM bed with no lumps or wayward springs poking up, a computer in the lobby without sticky keys and in English, sun streaming through the window next morning. Ahh!
Our first meal was my long-awaited salad (with blackened chicken) and a glass of Pinot and for Bruce, a fajita and a Guinness beer. The setting was a large, bright, noisy sports bar, ringed with many tv's on the walls. Very American and a bit of a culture shock. (You don't have much choice of venue when you are at the mercy of the hotel van for transportation.) It was a stark contrast to our dinner the previous evening in Antiqua, spent with our friend Andrea in the quiet, beautiful courtyard of a 17th century home-turned restaurant.
In the Miami area, we got a taste of the free-wheeling lifestyle and colorful art deco area of South Beach. As we ate lunch at a sidewalk cafe, we saw a parade of ladies in skin-tight jeans and high-rise heels, a German-speaking Santa in sandals, young couples in shorts and flip-flops, wobbly old folks, skateboarders, motor-scooters, a convertible overflowing with sexy young women, tour busses with open sides, bicyclists - they were all there, except for people in suits! South Beach is definitely a place for consumption and fun!
Since we were in the neighborhood, we made a slight detour to Grand Cayman and spent 8 days on that beautiful island with friends Sharon, Richard, and Ryan, and then Lem and Marcia, friends met during our last big adventure 6 years ago. They shared their homes and time with us, treating us to such elegant generosity and rekindling our friendship. I am happy to report that the water is still as turquoise and the sand as warm and smooth as it was before! The island is looking better than ever, with nary a sign of terrible Hurricane Ivan now. Thanks to these friends, we enjoyed a decadent time of total relaxation and indulgence. One of my favorite experiences (aside from the beach at Rum Point) was attending Ryan's Christmas concert, where we heard bits of the Christmas story read in all manner of English accents from around the world and listened to songs that I'd heard on the BBC Christmas Eve service from London, which is a mainstay at home on the morning of the 24th.
Eventually we made our way north to Maine, where the weather is considerably colder but the welcome was as warm as could be. We are spending the holidays at the home of Jane Andrews and Don Bouchard, for which we are very grateful. We've seen Matt and Izik, who were home from Chicago for 3 days, and Sam, at whose home we spent a delightful Christmas morning. It's been fun reconnecting with the rest of our family and a few friends. Unfortunately, Bruce brought home a mild case of pneumonia from Guatemala, which is definitely slowing us down. We're trying to get him rested and cured before we head out again on January 6 for Thailand.
The first leg of our year-long adventure has opened our eyes to another culture, introduced us to some wonderful people, allowed us to give a little of ourselves to a few kids in need, humbled us as we tried to learn another language, and left us with amazing memories. In another week, we will be heading out on another adventure that will, undoubtedly prove as interesting and exciting as the last.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Saying Good-bye to Safe Passage
Last Friday, December 2, was our last day at Safe Passage. It´s been a remarkable experience. However, Bruce´s sister pointed out recently that we haven´t written much about the program. I´ll try to rectify that right now.
I´ve been working in the Guarderia (the Spanish word for ¨day care¨, I believe). It´s a beautiful facility that was opened in 2007, a year or so after Hanley died. Hanley Denning is the young woman from Yarmouth, Maine, who founded Safe Passage as a safe place for children to come to before and after school while their parents picked the dump. She also raised enough money for the children to attend school. Officially, school is free in Guatemala. However, since uniforms and school supplies are required, it would be out of reach of these ¨poorest of the poor¨ families, without the assistance of Safe Passage.
The Guarderia consists of a classroom building and another building with a small gym and a storage area, an outdoor playground area, and a small asphalt playing field for older kids. The whole compound is located on reclaimed dump land and is encircled by a tall protective cement wall topped with coils of razor wire. An armed guard oversees the big metal door leading into the compound (I appreciate him!). Overhead the sky is unfailingly blue at this time of year, and dotted, high up, with an ever present bunch of hungry black vultures.
Inner courtyard of the school, looking toward the screened cafeteria
The Guarderia program serves about 87 young children, ages 2-7. Organized by a Canadian woman, Susan Schmaltz (whose husband was hired a year ago to head up Safe Passage), its educational philosophy is very progressive. Susan and her husband, Richard, are amazing people who have been working in Guatemala for 12 years, off and on.
Shortly after starting at SP, I was re-assigned, out of the kitchen and into the kindergarten, to assist the teacher. I was happy to see that the classroom was set up with learning centers, similar to those at Breakwater. The children spend time each morning and afternoon at the centers, which includes a wonderful ¨casita¨ (little pretend house), an art area, a puzzle table, a big blocks area, a Lego table, a large collection of picture books, and a loft. There is also a bathroom in every classroom. Ten children were enrolled all day. At noon, another 6 children arrived. Nice numbers!
Friends looking at books together
Since getting adequate nutrition is an issue for these children, especially at this age when the brain is developing so rapidly, the children are fed 4 times a day with fortified foods. And it seems to be working: the kids are bright, fairly healthy, and of normal weight. All the children gather for breakfast first thing in the morning in the large screened dining area, pictured above.
Kindergarten boys on the playground
In the classroom, the day begins with lots of active singing, which the kids love. It was a challenge for me, with my limited Spanish skills, but the teacher and the former assistant (18 year old Isabel from Germany) both helped by writing out the Spanish lyrics to many of the songs. The substitute teacher syndrome coupled with my lack of Spanish fluency, as well as the feisty nature of some of the children also made my half hour playground duty a challenge. But mostly, the kids were very engaging, sweet, and energetic. There was always someone who wanted a lap to sit in or a push on the swing or a story read to them. I loved observing their daily half hour English class, taught by a vivacious red-headed young Canadian woman who had an amazing ability to keep the kids focused and enthused and having fun. We also had a weekly art activity prepared for the children by 18 year old Grace, a volunteer from Portland.
Dynamic daily English class
My biggest contributions, aside from my main task helping out in class, were introducing pattern block activities to the class; using my copy of Lois Ehlert´s English/Spanish picture book, Moon Rope, to help with the end-of-year puppet show; and writing up a document describing the literacy environment that we had created at Breakwater. Safe Passage is in the process of becoming a private school for the early grades when the new school year begins in January, rather than just a before and after-school enrichment program. I´ve been assured that some of the literacy suggestions will be put into place
End-of-year performance for parents
An example of a memorable time for me happened just this week. One of the little boys, Pedro, is quite moody and sometimes won´t participate in classroom activities. This particular day, during choice/play time, he sat alone looking withdrawn and downcast. I approached him with a book that I was pretty sure he´d like, Where the Wild Things Are /Donde los Monstuos Viven). I offered to read it to him. He quietly assented without saying a word but began turning the pages for me - and got another book when we had finished the first (Robert Munsch´s I´ll Love You Forever/ Te Querrere Siempre). After some reading, I proposed another favorite activity for him: the big blocks. We began building a car to take us on an imaginary trip to the beach at Monterrico. I made some paper gauges for him, such as speedometer, gas gauge, temp. gauge,etc. We drove raucously, laughed, stopped for gas, were joined by Josue and the three of us got lunch at a resto. Suddenly I was the waitress taking orders for ¨hamburguesas y agua¨ for my two young customers. In short, by the magical power of the imagination, for a few minutes we exchanged the real life of the sordid dump for a bright sunny road trip. Life changing? Of course not, but a little escapism was good for all of us.
Pattern block designs on the bulletin board
Our last day at the project ended with an elegant evening art/photography exhibit and guitar performance by some of the teenagers who had taken special arts classes. It was held off-campus in a lovely gallery. The art had been tastefully hung on the walls. The guitar students played songs like, "Let It Be", and the 2010 World Cup song from South Africa. Mothers, dressed in fancy clothes, beamed proudly. Teens, dressed in fancy clothes, smiled shyly but with an evident confidence. Voluntarios, such as myself, bought student art work. A shared sense of hope for the future hung in the air. I couldn´t help but feel that this was a fitting culmination of our time at Safe Passage, where I got to see the results of Hanley´s vision - coupled with the generosity of many donors and voluntarios and local staff - coming together in the work of these talented teens who now had a better chance to lead a life of their choosing.
I´ve been working in the Guarderia (the Spanish word for ¨day care¨, I believe). It´s a beautiful facility that was opened in 2007, a year or so after Hanley died. Hanley Denning is the young woman from Yarmouth, Maine, who founded Safe Passage as a safe place for children to come to before and after school while their parents picked the dump. She also raised enough money for the children to attend school. Officially, school is free in Guatemala. However, since uniforms and school supplies are required, it would be out of reach of these ¨poorest of the poor¨ families, without the assistance of Safe Passage.
The Guarderia consists of a classroom building and another building with a small gym and a storage area, an outdoor playground area, and a small asphalt playing field for older kids. The whole compound is located on reclaimed dump land and is encircled by a tall protective cement wall topped with coils of razor wire. An armed guard oversees the big metal door leading into the compound (I appreciate him!). Overhead the sky is unfailingly blue at this time of year, and dotted, high up, with an ever present bunch of hungry black vultures.
The Guarderia program serves about 87 young children, ages 2-7. Organized by a Canadian woman, Susan Schmaltz (whose husband was hired a year ago to head up Safe Passage), its educational philosophy is very progressive. Susan and her husband, Richard, are amazing people who have been working in Guatemala for 12 years, off and on.
Shortly after starting at SP, I was re-assigned, out of the kitchen and into the kindergarten, to assist the teacher. I was happy to see that the classroom was set up with learning centers, similar to those at Breakwater. The children spend time each morning and afternoon at the centers, which includes a wonderful ¨casita¨ (little pretend house), an art area, a puzzle table, a big blocks area, a Lego table, a large collection of picture books, and a loft. There is also a bathroom in every classroom. Ten children were enrolled all day. At noon, another 6 children arrived. Nice numbers!
Since getting adequate nutrition is an issue for these children, especially at this age when the brain is developing so rapidly, the children are fed 4 times a day with fortified foods. And it seems to be working: the kids are bright, fairly healthy, and of normal weight. All the children gather for breakfast first thing in the morning in the large screened dining area, pictured above.
In the classroom, the day begins with lots of active singing, which the kids love. It was a challenge for me, with my limited Spanish skills, but the teacher and the former assistant (18 year old Isabel from Germany) both helped by writing out the Spanish lyrics to many of the songs. The substitute teacher syndrome coupled with my lack of Spanish fluency, as well as the feisty nature of some of the children also made my half hour playground duty a challenge. But mostly, the kids were very engaging, sweet, and energetic. There was always someone who wanted a lap to sit in or a push on the swing or a story read to them. I loved observing their daily half hour English class, taught by a vivacious red-headed young Canadian woman who had an amazing ability to keep the kids focused and enthused and having fun. We also had a weekly art activity prepared for the children by 18 year old Grace, a volunteer from Portland.
My biggest contributions, aside from my main task helping out in class, were introducing pattern block activities to the class; using my copy of Lois Ehlert´s English/Spanish picture book, Moon Rope, to help with the end-of-year puppet show; and writing up a document describing the literacy environment that we had created at Breakwater. Safe Passage is in the process of becoming a private school for the early grades when the new school year begins in January, rather than just a before and after-school enrichment program. I´ve been assured that some of the literacy suggestions will be put into place
An example of a memorable time for me happened just this week. One of the little boys, Pedro, is quite moody and sometimes won´t participate in classroom activities. This particular day, during choice/play time, he sat alone looking withdrawn and downcast. I approached him with a book that I was pretty sure he´d like, Where the Wild Things Are /Donde los Monstuos Viven). I offered to read it to him. He quietly assented without saying a word but began turning the pages for me - and got another book when we had finished the first (Robert Munsch´s I´ll Love You Forever/ Te Querrere Siempre). After some reading, I proposed another favorite activity for him: the big blocks. We began building a car to take us on an imaginary trip to the beach at Monterrico. I made some paper gauges for him, such as speedometer, gas gauge, temp. gauge,etc. We drove raucously, laughed, stopped for gas, were joined by Josue and the three of us got lunch at a resto. Suddenly I was the waitress taking orders for ¨hamburguesas y agua¨ for my two young customers. In short, by the magical power of the imagination, for a few minutes we exchanged the real life of the sordid dump for a bright sunny road trip. Life changing? Of course not, but a little escapism was good for all of us.
Pattern block designs on the bulletin board
Our last day at the project ended with an elegant evening art/photography exhibit and guitar performance by some of the teenagers who had taken special arts classes. It was held off-campus in a lovely gallery. The art had been tastefully hung on the walls. The guitar students played songs like, "Let It Be", and the 2010 World Cup song from South Africa. Mothers, dressed in fancy clothes, beamed proudly. Teens, dressed in fancy clothes, smiled shyly but with an evident confidence. Voluntarios, such as myself, bought student art work. A shared sense of hope for the future hung in the air. I couldn´t help but feel that this was a fitting culmination of our time at Safe Passage, where I got to see the results of Hanley´s vision - coupled with the generosity of many donors and voluntarios and local staff - coming together in the work of these talented teens who now had a better chance to lead a life of their choosing.
Monday, December 5, 2011
The People of Guatemala
The People of Guatemala
I know it`s tricky to make blanket statements about a group of people but I am inspired to write about the people of Guatemala. As in many things here, there are great contrasts between people. In general, the folks that we have encountered here are gentle, kind, and friendly - among the nicest people that we have met in our travels – a strong statement given our love of the New Zealanders.
One example of this warmth is the custom of friendly greetings that occur frequently between total strangers. On our first weekend in Xela we ate in an Italian restaurant and were greeted by people as they came in an out of the place. Greetings of Buenes Tardes and Buen Provecho (bon appetite) occurred frequently as people passed by our table. It is common, when walking down the street, to hear greetings and good wishes from total strangers – something that is rare in our experience at home. It is common here that people will greet one another with a hug and a peck on the cheek – even with a new acquaintance. Everyone seems to have a smile and a greeting for us which makes it very easy to feel comfortable here.
The other side of this story is the ever present anxiety about being robbed or assaulted. Personal security is something that we have to think about constantly which seems at odds with the warmth of the people. The high rate of extreme poverty here, currently at 55%, creates a situation where relatively wealthy tourists are “targets of opportunity” for any knucklehead with a gun or knife . While there is the ever present fear of robbery, merchants, waiters, and other people that we meet in commercial relationships are friendly and helpful – even with the language differences. We have never once been short changed or felt cheated in any transaction. I accidentally dropped a hundred Q bill (about $12.50) on the sidewalk one afternoon and a young Mayan woman came running after me with the bill. I am sure she could have used it so I was especially impressed with her honesty.
Robberies are common – in fact, four of our fellow volunteers have been robbed in the past few weeks and two members of the Safe Passage staff were stuck up at gun point by two guys in front of the school at 2 in the afternoon. The school is in the roughest neighborhood in the city. Luckily, no one was hurt but property was stolen. We feel that we need to be constantly on guard – especially after dark – but at all times. The country has one of the highest murder rates in the world, and violence is not uncommon. We have not yet been victims but it seems more of a real possibility than at home so we practice defensive measures.
Domestic violence is a real problem in many families, and the rate of child abuse is quite high. This dark underside of the culture seems so dramatic in light of the outward warmth and gentle nature of the people that we meet in our daily routines. I suspect that a large factor in this is the profound poverty that impacts so many of the people as they desperately try to care for their families under difficult conditions.
Families seem to be very important and to support each other. Children seem to be cherished even when there isn’t a lot of money to spend on material things. We are told that this is partly because there are no government programs – social security, medical care, or other support services to help out in a time of need. Everyone is essentially on their own to provide for their needs and that families are the really the only support system available in the country.
The racial mix is interesting in that there is little diversity. About 65 percent of the people are indigenous Mayan – with handsome features, dark black hair, brown skin, high cheekbones and short stature. Another 10 percent is Ladino or of Spanish origin with lighter features and greater height and the remaining 25 percent is a mixture of the two groups.
Appearance seems especially important here in Guatemala. In Xela, we were struck by the large number of small clothing stores, the many barber shops and beauty salons, and shoe stores. On our way to classes, we were impressed by the “spit shined” kids on their way to school who all looked, clean, neat, alert and well cared for. We noticed these children emerging from some fairly run down houses and wondered how they could look so good – coming from such poor surroundings. We were told that every child has two uniforms, one for wearing while the second one is cleaned.
The men, and boys as young as 4, seem to get weekly haircuts and sport some very creative hair structures – slicked straight forward or back, piled high in the middle, or swooped into soaring pompadours – all held rigidly in place with copious amounts of industrial strength hair gel sold in huge tubs at every little tienda. We encounter few scruffy looking people – except for the Americans and Germans.
The women tend to be very stylish in their tight jeans, plunging necklines, brown eyes and a fondness for high heels and painted nails. The younger women wear their hair in long pony tails or in a bun. The older women are well coiffed by frequent visits to the numerous beauty salons. We spot a lot of shops with fancy dresses that must be used on formal occasions but seldom seen in public events. The Mayan women are especially attractive in their colorful dresses, belts and blouses which are worn as everyday dress.
This is a conservative Catholic country and the people are especially devout practitioners. In Antigua, there are dozens of churches - many in ruins, having been destroyed by earthquakes, but many are in full operation with lots of people active in the congregation. We have spotted several large processions in honor of various saints or virgins - we’re never sure. These processions seem very ancient - with band music, drums, incense, swaying groups of men carrying large edifices with coffins of saints, spouting fountains, and lighted displays. There is even an electrical generator pulled behind the procession to power the float, and men with large sticks to lift power lines before the edifice passes.
In addition, there are festivals to honor the dead, numerous saints days, and even a burn-the-devil day. Now, as Christmas approaches, the town is getting more intense in its rituals, with more processions, fireworks, concerts, street entertainment, and lights. We are told that Semana Santa - or Easter Week, is even wilder, with the entire town given over to various processions and ceremonies. Some folks say that it is wise to avoid this because of the crowds, but it might be fun to see - at least once.
As our trip to Guate ends, we are looking forward to getting back to Maine but will miss the people of Guatemala. We trust that our experience here has made a bit of difference, albeit small, in the lives of the Guatemalan people, as it has enriched ours.
I know it`s tricky to make blanket statements about a group of people but I am inspired to write about the people of Guatemala. As in many things here, there are great contrasts between people. In general, the folks that we have encountered here are gentle, kind, and friendly - among the nicest people that we have met in our travels – a strong statement given our love of the New Zealanders.
One example of this warmth is the custom of friendly greetings that occur frequently between total strangers. On our first weekend in Xela we ate in an Italian restaurant and were greeted by people as they came in an out of the place. Greetings of Buenes Tardes and Buen Provecho (bon appetite) occurred frequently as people passed by our table. It is common, when walking down the street, to hear greetings and good wishes from total strangers – something that is rare in our experience at home. It is common here that people will greet one another with a hug and a peck on the cheek – even with a new acquaintance. Everyone seems to have a smile and a greeting for us which makes it very easy to feel comfortable here.
The other side of this story is the ever present anxiety about being robbed or assaulted. Personal security is something that we have to think about constantly which seems at odds with the warmth of the people. The high rate of extreme poverty here, currently at 55%, creates a situation where relatively wealthy tourists are “targets of opportunity” for any knucklehead with a gun or knife . While there is the ever present fear of robbery, merchants, waiters, and other people that we meet in commercial relationships are friendly and helpful – even with the language differences. We have never once been short changed or felt cheated in any transaction. I accidentally dropped a hundred Q bill (about $12.50) on the sidewalk one afternoon and a young Mayan woman came running after me with the bill. I am sure she could have used it so I was especially impressed with her honesty.
Robberies are common – in fact, four of our fellow volunteers have been robbed in the past few weeks and two members of the Safe Passage staff were stuck up at gun point by two guys in front of the school at 2 in the afternoon. The school is in the roughest neighborhood in the city. Luckily, no one was hurt but property was stolen. We feel that we need to be constantly on guard – especially after dark – but at all times. The country has one of the highest murder rates in the world, and violence is not uncommon. We have not yet been victims but it seems more of a real possibility than at home so we practice defensive measures.
Domestic violence is a real problem in many families, and the rate of child abuse is quite high. This dark underside of the culture seems so dramatic in light of the outward warmth and gentle nature of the people that we meet in our daily routines. I suspect that a large factor in this is the profound poverty that impacts so many of the people as they desperately try to care for their families under difficult conditions.
Families seem to be very important and to support each other. Children seem to be cherished even when there isn’t a lot of money to spend on material things. We are told that this is partly because there are no government programs – social security, medical care, or other support services to help out in a time of need. Everyone is essentially on their own to provide for their needs and that families are the really the only support system available in the country.
The racial mix is interesting in that there is little diversity. About 65 percent of the people are indigenous Mayan – with handsome features, dark black hair, brown skin, high cheekbones and short stature. Another 10 percent is Ladino or of Spanish origin with lighter features and greater height and the remaining 25 percent is a mixture of the two groups.
Appearance seems especially important here in Guatemala. In Xela, we were struck by the large number of small clothing stores, the many barber shops and beauty salons, and shoe stores. On our way to classes, we were impressed by the “spit shined” kids on their way to school who all looked, clean, neat, alert and well cared for. We noticed these children emerging from some fairly run down houses and wondered how they could look so good – coming from such poor surroundings. We were told that every child has two uniforms, one for wearing while the second one is cleaned.
The men, and boys as young as 4, seem to get weekly haircuts and sport some very creative hair structures – slicked straight forward or back, piled high in the middle, or swooped into soaring pompadours – all held rigidly in place with copious amounts of industrial strength hair gel sold in huge tubs at every little tienda. We encounter few scruffy looking people – except for the Americans and Germans.
The women tend to be very stylish in their tight jeans, plunging necklines, brown eyes and a fondness for high heels and painted nails. The younger women wear their hair in long pony tails or in a bun. The older women are well coiffed by frequent visits to the numerous beauty salons. We spot a lot of shops with fancy dresses that must be used on formal occasions but seldom seen in public events. The Mayan women are especially attractive in their colorful dresses, belts and blouses which are worn as everyday dress.
This is a conservative Catholic country and the people are especially devout practitioners. In Antigua, there are dozens of churches - many in ruins, having been destroyed by earthquakes, but many are in full operation with lots of people active in the congregation. We have spotted several large processions in honor of various saints or virgins - we’re never sure. These processions seem very ancient - with band music, drums, incense, swaying groups of men carrying large edifices with coffins of saints, spouting fountains, and lighted displays. There is even an electrical generator pulled behind the procession to power the float, and men with large sticks to lift power lines before the edifice passes.
In addition, there are festivals to honor the dead, numerous saints days, and even a burn-the-devil day. Now, as Christmas approaches, the town is getting more intense in its rituals, with more processions, fireworks, concerts, street entertainment, and lights. We are told that Semana Santa - or Easter Week, is even wilder, with the entire town given over to various processions and ceremonies. Some folks say that it is wise to avoid this because of the crowds, but it might be fun to see - at least once.
As our trip to Guate ends, we are looking forward to getting back to Maine but will miss the people of Guatemala. We trust that our experience here has made a bit of difference, albeit small, in the lives of the Guatemalan people, as it has enriched ours.
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