Cordoba

Cordoba January 25, 2014

Can it be only 2 1/2 weeks since we left home?  Boy, it seems so much longer!  So many new experiences, so much new information to absorb, such a different culture (though, I guess, not THAT different, since it’s still western world).  

Andalusia, the southern part of Spain where we will spend most of the winter, has several key cities:  Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada.  There’s Malaga, too, and the small town of Ronda.  Before we’re finished, we hope to have visited all of them, in addition to the village of Alozaina, where we will rent a small vacation home for the month of February.  Last week we were in Sevilla; this week it’s been Cordoba.  We had considered not hitting Cordoba, but I’m so glad that we decided not to skip it. While also on the list of World Heritage Sites, it’s less toney, less polished, half the size, a bit rougher than Sevilla - finding its way in these difficult economic times, with an amazing heritage and friendly people.   

The comparison of the two cities parallels our living experiences in each one.  In Sevilla, we stayed in the beautiful apartment of a nice lawyer and his family.  There was lovely art work on the walls and yummy treats put out for us to eat in the morning, as well as a belle epoque elevator to whisk us up to the third floor.  

Here in Cordoba, we’re staying on the third floor again, but this is a 10th century home (imagine!!), in the process of being restored and made into accommodations for travelers.  The building is owned by a transplanted German woman, very thoughtful and intelligent and worldly, and her place is definitely a work in progress.  It's amazing how she has made our little slice of heaven into an efficient space, with a bed, 2 comfy chairs, a tiny kitchen space, and a place to hang up our clothes, as well as a miniscule bathroom - all in the space that is about the size of our family room sitting area at home, or less. On our arrival last Monday, we entered a pretty, outdoor, enclosed patio with a non-functioning fountain in the middle, surrounded by lots of plants and some outdoor furniture. This is the only area where "weefee" works.  

Our Cordoba patio

We then lugged our bulging bags up two flights through a narrow, dark stairway.  We had been spoiled in our Sevilla spot with our elevator and our Wifi in our room.  But we love the ambiance, Carola's kindness, and the location right in the middle of the old city, not far from the world famous Mezquita.  There are homey little tapas bars all around, where we can take our laptop or our books and just hang out with a plate of fried sardines (boquerones, we could live on these - YUM) and a medio (glass of Cordoba white wine). There is so much antiquity to explore and absorb, just outside the gates of the house.

the old arch leading into our calle

The major draw in Cordoba is the Mezquita, the ancient 8th century mosque (turned Cathedral). Lonely Planet calls it "Andalucia's most spectacular structure" and "impossible to overestimate its beauty". I must say that I, too, was stopped dead in my tracks upon entering the "forest" of red and white arches in a space that holds a spiritual feel like a filmy scarf over all. It evoked a sense of exotic awe and joy, like nothing I've seen. Apparently, the goal of the architects all those centuries ago was to create a feeling of spaciousness and airiness, leading the eye heavenward. It was one of the largest mosques in the world, rivaling only the mosque in Baghdad. After Al-Andalus (the province of Andalucia) was lost to the "Catholic monarchs" during the Reconquista, the conquerors plunked a 16th century cathedral right into the middle of the arches! So, it's a fascinating historical creation, with a Christian church surrounded by an Islamic mosque. The two are totally different in style, of course, considering that they were built nearly a thousand years apart - and for two different religious faiths. I have never seen a marble bull and eagle in a sanctuary - or a lion, for that matter. Nor have I seen a sculpture of an angel wearing knee-length boots and showing bare leg! Anyone who can shed light on these phenomena, please let us know.

             the amazing arches in the Islamic part of the Mezquita

                                      superhero angel

bull and eagle in the Catholic Cathedral part of the Mezquita

Another interesting destination in the old city of Cordoba was the Casa de la Serafad, a house devoted to the Sephardic Spanish experience, with special focus on Maimonides, the great Jewish philosopher, organizer of the Torah rules, and medical expert. He was a native of Cordoba, but had to flee with his family during the time of the Inquisition, ending up in Cairo.

Sephardic pottery and statue of Maimonides in the old Jewish quarter

One of the characteristics of Islamist architecture, apparently, was privacy for the home. The Spaniards seem to have picked up on this concept, too, as inner patios are common. We had seen this in Guatemala, but here the patios are more often open for a peek from passers-by, while still offering protection with a lovely iron gate, designed in scrollwork. Recently, Cordoba has developed a patio competition, I read, where owners decorate their patios with plants, etc. and then open them to the public at certain times (not in the winter). We were able to get a few glimpses, even in January.

Cordoba has a beautiful new pedestrian walkway along the Quadalquivir River (same river as in Seville). In the evening, with the sun setting, it was lovely to join others who were strolling, jogging, biking, etc. Even after dark, energetic exercisers ran over its smooth surface.

The Mezquita and the walkway which runs along the river.