Granada, Home of the Alhambra January 31, 2014
Granada, the Alhambra: such exotic names, conjuring up images of hidden gardens and Arabic palaces. It was hard to believe that they are real places where people live real lives in a modern world - until we arrived and discovered that Granada is a lively Spanish city. The smallest and most easterly of the three major cities in Andalusia, it's the most southerly, as well, though not the warmest, due to its location close to the mountain range known as the Sierra Nevada. Snow on those mountains was a reminder that winter is not far away, after all.
Our AirBnB this time was the modern, spacious apartment of a lovely woman, her two sons - ages 11 & 14 - and their dog, Lucy. We had a bedroom and adjoining private bath - and delicious breakfasts every day, prepared by Rosa. She was a delightful host, helping us with questions of train tickets, local bus travel, and admission to Alhambra, as well as broadening our ever-evolving understanding of modern Spain. On our first day there, she had to run off to attend a futball (soccer) game of one son - and then do the same for the other son the day after. She's divorced and does marketing work from home, but her ex-husband lives nearby and is very involved with their sons. She could be a Gorham soccer mom.
Our AirBnB this time was the modern, spacious apartment of a lovely woman, her two sons - ages 11 & 14 - and their dog, Lucy. We had a bedroom and adjoining private bath - and delicious breakfasts every day, prepared by Rosa. She was a delightful host, helping us with questions of train tickets, local bus travel, and admission to Alhambra, as well as broadening our ever-evolving understanding of modern Spain. On our first day there, she had to run off to attend a futball (soccer) game of one son - and then do the same for the other son the day after. She's divorced and does marketing work from home, but her ex-husband lives nearby and is very involved with their sons. She could be a Gorham soccer mom.
Bruce had ordered tickets for the Alhambra even before we arrived in town, as had been advised, and our appointed time was 2pm the next day. A bus took us from bustling downtown Granada up the steep hill to where the red brick palace-fortress complex stretches out along a high ridge.
Visiting in January saved us from the crushing crowds that throng this world-famous site in warmer months. Even so, the entrance line was pretty long, most of whom were tourists from Spain. Once we got inside, there was enough space for everyone to spread out and enjoy being drawn into the last bastion of Islamist power in Spain. After Seville and Cordoba had fallen into the hands of the Christians, the Muslims of these cities flocked to Granada, which managed to hold onto power for another 250 years. The arts, sciences, and humanities flourished during this time, and Granada became one of the richest cities in Europe. The grandeur of the Alhambra speaks to this status. Everywhere one looks, there is beauty: intricate, dainty stucco work on the walls; detailed, geometric carved wooden doors and ceilings; horseshoe-arch openings, dripping with lacy hangings; lush, colorful gardens, and everywhere the gorgeous tiles. Light played on the shiny marble floors, and stately columns created shadows. And the magic of water is everywhere, with its coolness and its soft, burbling sounds and its graceful reflective quality. It was all very sensual and other-worldly and reminded us of the uplifting power of beauty.
A couple of my favorites were the Patio of Lions, where 12 stone lions surround a fountain, each spouting water out of its mouth. Very fun. Just off to the side of this patio is a room with an amazingly beautiful ceiling, octagonal in shape and embellished with lacy stucco work. And outside, in another area, is a simple invention that would be so great on a hot, hot day: a channel of running water that courses down an outdoor stairway - at waist-height so that one's hand can dribble in it while climbing the stairs!
We stayed as long as we could, discovering one lovely pool or garden after another in this magical place, until our stomachs were growling for food and we tore ourselves away, down the hill to the real world and a tapas bar.
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